Story: Fatih Cami

You’re not going to find the latest European fashions in Fatih.

You’re not going to come across any of Istanbul’s hippest bars either.

And you probably won’t find any five-star hotels or restaurants.

But if you’re willing to take a chance on one of Istanbul’s most conservative districts and disregard the advice of some guidebooks that consider Fatih completely skippable, you’ll be surprised by the beauty of its buildings, the charm of its markets and the warmth of its people.

Outside of historic Sultanahmet and away from the bars and lights of trendy Beyoğlu, lies the Fatih Cami, or the Mosque of the Conqueror, whose beauty rivals that of the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque).

Fatih can offer a respite from the touts in the Grand Bazaar and the non-stop party in Taksim. People there are sincere in their efforts to meet and greet you and though many don’t speak English, they love to share the history of the Fatih Cami as best they can.

Surrounded by a maze of winding streets crowded with butchers, clothiers, bakeries and fruit stalls lies Fatih’s mosque and its courtyards. Here, you can find the city’s cheapest tavuk doner and ayran, a steal at only 1.50 YTL. Unlike most of the city’s other markets, frequented by tourists, the prices here are just right for meats, cheese, pastries and general household products. In fact, prices for most things are considerably cheaper than in Sultanahmet or Taksim.

And though you probably will not see such a concentration of covered women elsewhere in Istanbul, you will feel right at home when you enter the mosque’s gardens and see women and children feeding the scores of cats who make the courtyard their home.

On Wednesdays, join the locals in the mosque’s courtyard and surrounding shops when they turn into a crowded pazar. On Sundays, bring a packed lunch and gather with other families in the gardens for a picnic.

The site of the Fatih Cami has, in fact, been a cultural center for hundreds of years, even before the mosque was there. The Church of the Holy Apostles (originally built by Constantine the Great) once stood on the mosque’s hilltop location until Mehmet the Conqueror, after his capture of Istanbul in 1453 A.D., decided to build the city’s first imperial mosque there. Finished in 1470, the mosque’s courtyard was extensive and included 15 charitable establishments such as schools, a hospital and a hamam.

The architect Atik Sinan (Sinan the elder) designed the mosque but he made a grave error: When Sultan Mehmet discovered that Sinan had not managed to make the mosque taller than the Hagia Sophia despite the mosque’s position on a hilltop, he ordered Sinan’s hands cut off as punishment.

The mosque you see today, however, is sadly not the original mosque. An earthquake in 1766 brought the mosque down after damage from several other earthquakes and fires. Rebuilt only a few years later, today’s mosque is on an entirely different plan.

Despite that, Fatih Cami is surprisingly impressive. With its large main dome supported by four semi-domes and wide columns all decorated in bright blue, red and green tiles, the mosque’s serene interior is a nice way to spend a quiet afternoon for reflection.

The mosque is also home to its namesake: Directly behind the mosque are the tombs of Mehmet the Conqueror and his wife Gülbahar. Curiously, Mehmet’s body is not inside the tomb; it is buried under the mimber, the high pulpit that points toward Mecca from where Friday noon service is preached.

His wife is buried in the tomb and attracts many visitors and worshippers. No admission fee is required to visit, but a donation is encouraged.

Fatih Cami is located on Fevzi Pasa Caddesi. Get there by taking the 87 bus from Taksim Square. The tombs are open from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Avoid visiting on Fridays, the holy day for Muslims. Women should bring a shawl or scarf to cover their heads and should not wear short skirts or shorts. Men should not wear shorts. Be prepared to remove your shoes before entering.