Story: San Francisco's Polk Street: A local's guide to glitz and grit

Polk street can be described as an economic microcosm of San Francisco. Running from Fisherman's Wharf Southeast to Civic Center, this two lane commercial corridor skirts the edges of neighborhoods from the scenic and wealthy Russian Hill and Nob Hill, to the troubled Tenderloin.

Perhaps because of this, it remains one of the few retail-oriented stretches in the greater downtown area that cater almost exclusively to neighborhood locals. It's also a great route to navigate (if you don't mind a 2 mile walk with some hills early on) between some of The City's most celebrated landmarks. Here's a quick guide:

-Begin at Polk and Beach, next to Ghiradelli Square (undergoing renovation) and across from Aquatic Park's Maritime Museum (also undergoing renovation). Head Southeast on Polk Street, up the hill.

-Six blocks later, through Polk's only truly residential patch, you'll come to Lombard. Take a detour two (uphill) blocks east. The top of the hill at Hyde is the gate to the famous twisted, brick-paved block.

-Returning to Polk and continuing Southeast, the Russian Hill commercial district begins at Union Street. Between Union and Broadway an assortment of dining options can be found. These include the Zagat worthy Antica Trattoria and Pesce, the homey Polker's Burgers, and the quirky Nick's Crispy Tacos (located inside Rouge nightclub). Shopping is mostly upscale, but includes a number of shops featuring unique furnishings and clothing.

-Past Broadway the mood becomes a bit more casual as the neighborhood transitions into Nob Hill's outskirts. There's not much to rave about gastronomically, but between Broadway and Clay there are a number of independently owned shops offering anything from hip music lessons and dog grooming to eclectic stationary and vintage earthenware.

-Somewhere between Clay and California, it will occur to you that you're in a different neighborhood altogether. The cuisine becomes more take-out oriented (with various notable exceptions), and the mood goes from casual to, well, bohemian might be the right word. If it's time for lunch or dinner, cross the famed cable car tracks and head to Shalimar Indian and Pakistani Restaurant (near the corner of Polk and Pine). It offers the rare treat of an outdoor patio section, permitting people-watching from the comfort of a shaded, fenced-in dining area, and the food's cheap yet respectable.

-After a meal, it's worth heading over to R-Bar, just to the East on Sutter, for a Fernet with a ginger back. The Italian (and now quintessentially San Franciscan) digestif was arguably first introduced to The City here, and is served enthusiastically.

-If another drink is in order, Polk between Sutter and Post offers a small Mission District style bar scene with Hemlock Tavern as well as the aptly named Blur and Vertigo.

-South of Geary you're not going to see much before City Hall. This is the veritable edge of the Tenderloin, San Francisco's inner city haven for the down-and-out. It offers a glimpse at the neighborhood without being fully immersed. In terms of safety, aggressive pan-handling is the only immediate threat, but keep the camera and map tucked away, and avoid passing through too long after dark. The biggest positive influence on the block (literally and figuratively) is the California Culinary Academy, located in a beautiful, if not perfectly maintained, neo-gothic building. Although the wonderful Academy Grill has moved to a new location, you can still catch a glimpse of uniformed students catching a smoke between classes.

-Polk Street effectively ends at Civic Center Plaza, with it's view of City Hall and other classically styled government buildings. This historic district requires a tour in itself, so beyond a quick look around, it's worth picking up a book or taking a guided tour. From here, the Civic Center BART and MUNI station is just a short walk through UN Plaza to Market Street.

Of course, Polk has much more to offer than what's mentioned here. Don't be afraid to ask someone on the street for a recommendation (exercising good judgement, of course).

While not the most scenic, hip, or unique thoroughfare in The City, Polk Street offers a bang-for-your buck walkability that's hard to beat in anything but the most tourist ravaged neighborhoods. As people countrywide begin to reassess the way we segregate ourselves from our work, our services and our neighbors, Polk Street offers a glimpse at a dense, diverse and thriving community that works.