Story: Food for Thought: What to Eat in China

It is often said that people in China eat everything with four legs except a table. China is well known for its distinctive carnivorous cuisine. Perhaps you have heard tales of scorpions on sticks and house pets for lunch. But don’t let these scare tactics dissuade you from the adventure of eating in China.

FOOD CULTURE IN CHINA

Food culture in China is born of practicality and centuries of famine, drought and all manner of calamities that forced people to be creative with food. The result is an eclectic mix of culinary offerings that appear on the plate, many unrecognizable to Western eyes.

If you are a first or even second time visitor to China, you may be tempted to play it safe and dine in your hotel restaurant. Avoid this if you can. Your taste buds will thank you for it. I recently returned from a trip to Hong Kong, Guili and Shanghai. In Guilin, I traveled on a group tour. The hotel itself was fine but the problem is that we were only taken to the hotel restaurant to eat.

The food was served in typical lazy Susan style but it was basic and bland. It was not even as good as the food at my local hometown Chinese restaurant. When I questioned one of our (American) trip leaders about this, I was told that the typical Chinese restaurant food was too “different” for Americans to tolerate hence the “safer” restaurant tourist fare.

In order to test this theory, I went out one night to a night market. Fortunately, my husband and I sat down next to a group of Shanghai businesspeople on holiday for the Ching Ming Festival.

We started a conversation and soon enough, they were helping us order from the menu. I decided on a vegetarian noodle soup type dish after one of the businessmen remarked that, “I just got the noodles with horse meat. I don’t mind that, but I won’t eat dog since I have a pet dog at home.” So, maybe our tour guide did have a point.

But, traveling to different cultures is about experiencing them, correct? Food is an integral part of that experience. In my two trips to China, the only time I became ill was eating at a Pizza Hut in Hong Kong, of all places. Mind you, I traveled all over China and not only did I eat at many local restaurants I had the good fortune to eat in peoples’ homes.

EAT WITH A LOCAL

That said, it isn’t easy dining at local restaurants (or homes) unless you have a trusted local person to help. I was fortunate to be with a group that traveled all over China, with excellent Chinese guides. We ate the famous Beijing duck-thin sliced with pancakes and plum sauce as well as noodle dishes, dumplings, and the like. It was all good but it was all ordered for us by our Chinese hosts.

Venturing out on my own or with a small group of friends led to a variety of experiences. In Beijing, these were mostly favorable.

During a very memorable lunch in Beijing, a small group of women and I were able to successfully order (and cook, with the servers’ help) hot pot at a restaurant in Wangfuji, the ultra modern mega shopping complex. We also had a great time on a hutong tour in Beijing where we stopped for lunch with a Chinese family who lived in a traditional courtyard home. Our entire group of 18 helped Mrs. Wang prepare lunch. Delicious and well worth it, even if was a tourist stop.

But in Shanghai, ordering hotpot at a local restaurant near Nanjing Road was a comedy of errors with a lot of pointing, miscues and frustration. Later, walking through back alleyways and sides streets, we also saw the infamous “wet market”-live creatures getting ready to become someone’s dinner. Perhaps some of their cousins had been on our plates. If you need a break from all tis, try “M on the Bund” in Shanghai. This is a top rated Western restaurant with a great view. If frustration overtakes you, go there for some familiar tastes

HOME COOKING

In terms of home cooking, In Western China I spent a night with a Tibetan family in a traditional courtyard home. The specialty there is “yak butter tea.” Refusing it would have been considered very rude. Barley wine is also another local favorite. It tastes a lot like Japanese sake.

But beware-it isn’t difficult to get inebriated on this potent stuff. One of my traveling companions was so overcome by this spirit that he shared a rooster head with the local party leader at a local banquet. We were told that rooster head is a rare delicacy and is only given to honored guests!

We also had a taste of family dining on a hutong tour in Beijing. All 18 people in my group squeezed into the Wong family’s tiny kitchen to where we stopped for lunch with a Chinese family who lived in a traditional courtyard home. Our entire group of 18 helped Mrs. Wang prepare lunch. Delicious and well worth it, even if was a tourist stop.

But in Shanghai, ordering hotpot at a local restaurant near Nanjing Road was a comedy of errors with a lot of pointing, miscues and frustration. Later, walking through back alleyways and sides streets, we also saw the infamous “wet market”-live creatures getting ready to beocme someone’s dinner. Maybe some of their cousins had been on our plates!

In terms of home cooking, In Western China I spent a night with a Tibetan family in a traditional courtyard home. The specialty there is “yak butter tea.” Refusing it would have been considered very rude. Barley wine is also another local favorite. It tastes a lot like Japanese sake.

But beware-it isn’t difficult to get inebriated on this potent stuff. One of my traveling companions was so overcome by this spirit that he shared a rooster head with the local party leader at a local banquet. We were told that rooster head is a rare delicacy and is only given to honored guests!

Speaking of honored guests, dining with a family at home is something very special. Most Chinese people will go all out for guests, often using a few months worth of groceries in preparing and serving food. So, don’t accept such an invitation if you think you may have “reservations” about local cuisine.

During a home stay in Beijing, my host family and I made “gyoza” (dumplings) together. My gyoza making skills were deficient as I was told. Nonetheless, the final product was delicious. We also shared hot pot, cooked on a flame type appliance on the tabletop with lots of fresh vegetables and unidentifiable meats.

When I asked my hosts what one of the rubbery type meats I had just swallowed was, a quick translation came back. through my host’s teenage son. “Bull’s throat,” I was told. This taught me NOT to ask. You shouldn’t either, If it tastes good, eat it is my advice! Or, stick