Story: Cannon Beach, Oregon -- Escaping Summer's Heat

We were desperate to escape the sweltering heat of the Southeastern United States in July. In searching a map of the United States for cooler climes (a trip abroad was unaffordable with the weak dollar), we spotted Oregon. (Of course, I had a business meeting scheduled in Portland for mid-July which helped our selection.) The Oregon Coast is beautiful, we were told. Driving an hour and a half along U.S. Highway 26 from Portland led us to Cannon Beach.

Before departing, a quick Google search yielded gorgeous photographs of Cannon Beach and its iconic Haystack Rock. We booked a condo for a week through Cannon Beach Vacation Rentals. http://www.visitcb.com/ A comfortable two bedroom condo in Tolovana Park, just south of Cannon Beach, was our home for a week.

Our first impression of the Oregon coast centered on the cold – even in July. Coming from the southern United States where highs in July easily reach the mid-90s, the brisk 50s and 60s of an Oregon July is a shock. (A welcome relief, but still startling.) Fog in the morning and a steady breeze (well, sometimes wind) necessitated at least a jacket while on the beach during the day and several layers at night.

When arriving in Cannon Beach, Haystack Rock is hard to miss and who would want to. This massive, 235 foot high rock towers over the beach and is the subject of countless photographs. (The movie “The Goonies” includes Haystack Rock as a backdrop for the car chase at the beginning of the movie.) At low tide, make sure you walk down to the rock and observe the sea anemones and birds nesting on the rock.

Cannon Beach is divided into three distinct areas – Tolovana Park to the south, Midtown a little north, and downtown or central Cannon Beach still further north. One can walk from Tolovana Park to Midtown in 20-30 minutes. Midtown is less crowded than downtown and has a few stores and a municipal parking lot that hosts a weekly farmers’ market.

Located in Midtown, the American Legion Post #168, 1216 S. Hemlock St., hosts several dinners during the summer tourist season. Each Monday the American Legion holds Jam ‘N Burgers – an improv musical group plays tunes while volunteers grill burgers. Five bucks buys a burger and $3.50 for a pint of regional beer. Worth a stop. The third Sunday of each month the American Legion serves a hearty breakfast of eggs, pancakes and sausage for $5.

In Tolovana Park, restaurants are fewer than downtown but of high quality.
The Stephanie Inn, 2740 South Pacific, is renowned for its fine cuisine and fine accommodations on the beach. The prix fixe dinner of $49 per person plus wine is a lovely evening. The menu changes daily and the friendly, unpretentious staff graciously advises on selections. http://www.stephanie-inn.com/

Mo’s at Tolovana serves up some wonderful clam chowder and fried fish. Admittedly, the interior of the restaurant is nothing to look at, but its seaside location and delicious food combine for a casual, fun evening. 195 Warren Way, Tolovana Park, 503-436-1111.

An unassuming restaurant, Warren House Pub, serves some of the best fried oysters in Cannon Beach. According to the locals, true Oregon oysters are small in size and are fried lightly with rice flour. The Warren House version of fried oysters is worth a stop along with the locally made beer. 3301 S. Hemlock, 503-436-1130.

For breakfast, stop by the Waves of Grain Bakery. Go early during the summer as they sell out of many of their freshly baked goods by mid-morning. Purchase anything made with marionberries. This tart berry is an Oregon specialty and reminiscent of a cranberry or blueberry. Also, the bakery’s hours vary so plan ahead to make sure you are able to purchase a variety of baked goods. 3301 S. Hemlock, http://www.wavesofgrainbakery.com/

Downtown Cannon Beach during the summer is packed. The crush of tourists has almost squelched the charm of this Oregon beach town, but not yet. Wandering the main drag, Hemlock Street, and its side streets is a delightful way to spend a few hours (or a day).

Stop by Bella Espresso for coffee, smoothies or about anything else they offer. It is all good. 231 Hemlock St., http://bellaesp.server344.com/

At Sweet Basil’s Café, 271 N. Hemlock, we had a delightful lunch, of soup, deli sandwiches, and grilled Cuban sandwiches. True to Oregon form, we started eating lunch outside but the steady wind off the beach chased us inside to escape the cold.

Bruce’s Candy Kitchen is a required stop. The various forms of candy, salt water taffy, chocolates of many varieties, and sea foam (a cross between candy and a cookie) are all candidates for immediate gratification or gifts to take home. 256 Hemlock Street, http://www.brucescandy.com/

When you are tired of eating out, the Ecola Seafood Restaurant and Market is a great place to purchase seafood to cook yourself or they will serve it up in the casual restaurant. We purchased some of the largest oysters I have ever seen (so large in fact that they could not be from Oregon according to the locals). 208 N. Spruce St., http://ecolaseafoods.com/

Numerous galleries and shops line Hemlock Street. The wine shop, The Wine Shack, is small but has a wide selection of Oregon wines and a friendly, professional staff. 124 Hemlock St., http://www.beachwine.com/ Jupiter Books, 244 N. Spruce St., http://jupitersbooks.com/ , and Cannon Beach Book Company, 130 N. Hemlock St., http://www.cannonbeachbooks.com/ will satisfy the most ardent bibliophile.

Of course, the scenery of the Oregon coast is well deservedly famous and breath-taking. Just south of Cannon Beach is Ecola State Park. The drive into the park is gorgeous and that alone would be worth the trip. Leave your car and hike the trail north along the coast. The trail for the most part hugs cliffs overlooking the Pacific and on a clear day the views are breath-taking. The park is the southernmost point on the Pacific Coast reached by the Lewis and Clark expedition in the early 1800s. Along the trail if you look closely in the woods, you will see bunkers from World War II that housed soldiers guarding the coast against Japanese submarines. http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_188.php

About an hour south along the U.S. Highway 101 is the Three Capes Scenic Loop. If you are in Cannon Beach, you must not miss this drive. The scenery and weather changes hourly – from fog to sun to fog – but every minute is a delight. If you plan enough time, the hike along the Cape Lookout Trail which juts out into the Pacific Ocean is a wonderful three hour hike. Bring plenty of water and you will not regret it. http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_186.php

Finally, end your day with a relaxing fire on the beach. Coming from the South where a fire on the beach in July would result in a visit from the local fire department or the nearest mental hospital, a fire on the Oregon beach at night is a relaxing way to end a busy day hiking along the Oregon coast. Numerous stores sell firewood. Stake out your spot early as they go quickly during tourist season. One evening we counted at least 20 separate fires within view along Cannon Beach.

Cannon Beach – a delightful escape from the summer heat. Book early, dress warmly, and enjoy.

For more information on Cannon Beach, see the Chamber of Commerce web site:
http://www.cannonbeach.org/