Story: Ancient Ruins of Turkey

Troy. So much power and intrigue lie within those four letters. It is the city of legends. A city of epic battles, bitter rivalries, and Trojan horses, it is portrayed best through the brilliance of Homer, Virgil, and Brad Pitt. It is unarguably the most famous of the ancient ruins of Turkey and one that I was anticipating with bated breath.

However my breath quickly abated upon arrival- I looked around, scratched my head, and said aloud, “Really? Is this it?” I followed the wooden platform path around a stone wall, through a garden of really old rock rubble, down a gouged-out hillside, and… and … back to that first stone wall again? Seriously?

Yes, seriously. Welcome to Troy. What was once a powerful mercantile city, situated at the junction of the Aegean and Black seas, now lay in, well, ruins. Thirteen layers of ruins to be precise. Modern archaeologists agree that Troy I, dating back to 3000-2600 B.C. had 12 reincarnations, the latest being Troy IX, founded by the Romans during the first century B.C. As fires, earthquakes, and wars felled each Troy, the next was built directly over the precious Troy’s ruins. It was an archaeologist's’s dream- 13 layers of lost city, dating back nearly 5000 years. Unfortunately for the archaeologists-and the city of Troy- it was discovered not by a meticulous scientist but by an entrepreneur.

In the 1870s, Heinrich Schliemann left his native Germany in search of treasure, glory, and specifically, the lost city of Troy. Upon its discovery, this self-taught archaeologist used such destructive excavating methods, he virtually destroyed the main layers of the city. As a result, much of the ruins lay strewn and scattered as if they themselves were ravaged by earthquakes, wars, and fires. Today, the only recognizable feature of Troy is the sloping marble road leading to what were once the gates of the formidable city. That this is the most reconstructed part of the city should be no surprise. After all, without gates, there could have been no Trojan horse to pass through. And Trojan horses are the stuff of legends.

Unlike the ubiquitous Troy, I had never heard of Pergamon before my tour guide announced that it was our next stop. We were told there wasn't much left to explore, that the main alters had been long since removed. Bolstered by coffee, we began the drive up the 300m high mountain.

As it turns out, coffee was not necessary for my attention span, for Pergamon was absolutely captivating. Perched high above the Bergama and Gediz Valleys of Northwestern Anatolia, the view was breathtaking. Though nearly 25km from the Aegean Sea, it was a gorgeously clear day and I could see the sparkling water on the distant horizon.

The lookout point, now empty, once held the imposing Altar of Zeus, modeled after the acropolis in Athens and once referred to as "Satan's Throne" by John of Patmos in the Book of Revelations. However German archaeologist Carl Humann disassembled it in 1871 and shipped it to Berlin where it still stands in a museum aptly named "The Pergamon Museum." Despite attempts to recover the great alter, Turkey has no legal right to it and stands little chance of having it returned. In March of 2006 the Turkish Culture Ministry announced plans to replicate the altar and post a sign stating that the original still stands in Berlin.

The most reconstructed part of Pergamon is the Temple of Trajan, perched majestically on the crest of the hill. Built on an artificial terrace, webs of vaulted passageways beneath the temple helped to reduce the impact of earthquakes. Perhaps because of the tremendously tall white marble columns or maybe because the framed courtyard happened to be empty and free of tourists for a few miraculous minutes, the spot just oozed spirit and sacredness. For the first time in my life, I felt that awe and wonder that such temples and altars aim to inspire.

Etched into the side of the mountain, below the perch where the Altar of Zeus once stood, lays the theater. With 80 rows seating approximately 10,000 people, it is large and formidable. However its glory lies in its angle, not its size- it holds the record for the steepest seating of any known theater in the ancient world. Steps are nearly two feet high and traversing rows is an exercise in both athletic stamina and vertigo avoidance.

During the second century BC, Pergamon was hit with a papyrus shortage. Instead of paying exorbitant prices for the Egyptian textile, they developed a new substance made of fine sheep or goat skin. An early predecessor of vellum, they called it pergamena, after the city. The textile, which we call parchment today, enabled volumes to be assembled into codices, rather than scrolls. With flat sheets bound together on one end (the same form as modern day books), codices were easier to print, read and store than scrolls. As a result, the Pergamon library became the second largest library in the world and contained over 200,000 volumes. Sadly, the entire library was given to the Library of Alexandria as a wedding present from Marc Antony to his bride Cleopatra. What caused the decline of the ancient city is not fully known. However with the loss of its cultural and educational heart, it is no wonder that the entire city soon declined.

Ephesus, with both reputation and deliverance, boasts the largest collection of Roman ruins East of the Mediterranean. Like Efes, the beer that is name after this ancient metropolis, you simply can’t miss it. A must on the Turkish tourism circuit, it is one of the few ruins that leaves you full and satisfied.

Once capital of the Western region of Asia Minor, Ephesus was a powerful center of commerce, culture and education. During its peak in 100-200 AD, it was second only to Rome in size and importance. Alters, temples, storefronts, and fountains flank the reconstructed streets and create a flooding blur of white marble, exquisite carvings and majestic architecture. An impressive collection of reassembled ruins, it is simply mind boggling that only 15% of the city has been excavated.

Ephesus was a modern city and its citizens valued education highly. Its library is a testament to that, for it is one of the most prominent structures in the reconstructed city. Rebuilt with only original pieces, it has an exaggerated entrance- the windows and columns on the second floor are shorter than their first floor counterparts, giving the illusion of an extremely tall façade. Built in 125 AD, it was the third largest library in the world during the Hellenistic period and housed more than 12,000 scrolls. Rumors abound that a connecting tunnel provided a direct passage to a nearby brothel. While tickling for tourists, there is not enough archaeological evidence to prove or disprove the library’s most famous speculation.

Ephesus boasts the largest outdoor theater in the ancient world with a seating capacity of roughly 44,000. Originally used for theater and town meetings, it was later used for gladiator combats. In May of 2007, archaeologists unearthed evidence of a nearby graveyard dedicated solely to the gladiators.

Several bath complexes line the main city promenade. The toilets consist of stone benches built a few meters above water aqueducts that carry the used water away from the city. Servants of the wealthy were often sent to the bathhouses early to warm the stone toilet seats and accompanying orchestras often performed within the bathhouse walls. Only men were allowed in the bathhouses, forcing the women of the city to use their own cold toilets and provide their own ambient music. If this isn't gender biased and unfair, I'm not sure what is.

Once situated next to the Aegean Sea, the harbor gradually filled with silt. Despite numerous dredgings, Ephesus became increasingly inland, now standing 5km from the water. With decreased access to the sea, Ephesus’ position as a major center of commerce gradually declined. As with all great and powerful cities, Ephesus was also the target of many attacks and sieges. The city was destroyed many times, most notably by the Goths in 263 and the Arabs in 654. By 1300, Crusaders seeking the great and powerful city found only a small village. Once the most powerful city outside of Rome, Ephesus was completely abandoned by the 15th century.