Story: Belfast, Northern Ireland
Belfast has risen like a phoenix from the past. Today it's as vibrant and surprising as any other metropolitan city, yet it still has an unspoilt charm.
In 2006, Belfast was noted as being “on the rise” by the Lonely Planet Bluelist guide, and Northern Ireland was described as being “abuzz with life: the cities are pulsating, the economy is thriving and the people, the lifeblood that courses through the country, are in good spirits” – it was a “must-see” for the next year.
In 2007, the city was voted No. 2 “Favorite City Break” by 13,500 readers of The Guardian and The Observer (UK).
Still in the midst of a rapid cultural and tourism renaissance in 2008, Belfast (or Béal Feirste) is now one of the most popular destinations in Europe, and having lived there from 1999-2004, I can safely say that the media image of bombs and balaclavas is long gone. It’s an ideal place for a weekend getaway or a longer visit, and all you have to decide is what you want to do.
There are plenty of options for those who want a fast and frantic fun-filled time, but also for explorers who like to travel further afield – perhaps to the world-famous Giant’s Causeway, or to sip a few wonderful whiskeys at the Bushmills Distillery, which celebrates it’s 400th anniversary in April.
Belfast is a charming and intimate city and this is reflected in the people, who always have time for a chat and are happy to see people coming to visit. For a long time this wasn’t the case; decades of what was known as “The Troubles” gave the city a reputation as a no-go zone, but today, Belfast is an entirely different place.
Many people are curious to see the city that’s now a “must visit”, and in typical Belfast spirit, the past is now celebrated with black taxi “terror tours” that take you into some of the infamous parts of the city, showing you murals and points of interest along the way. They’re certainly worth doing, because they show how far the city and its people have come in the last few years.
Visiting film and history fans will already know that Belfast is the place where the legendary SS Titanic was built. The doomed steamship first set sail from the Harland and Woolf shipyard in 1912, and a statue beside City Hall pays tribute to the many who lost their lives on that fateful journey. Today, the Lagan Boat Company will sail you around the shipyard and show you the huge docks where many titans of the sea were assembled rivet-by-rivet.
Once you have checked in, get out there and start seeing the sights for yourself; Belfast is a treasure of Victorian and Georgian architecture, so make sure you look upwards as you walk around.
A visit to the Botanic Gardens and its beautiful Palm House – the oldest working curvo-linear cast-iron glasshouse – is a good way to sample the Victorian love of exotic flora and fauna. Next door is the tiny Friar’s Bush cemetery, which dates back to the 14th and 15th century and is one of the oldest in Ireland.
It’s rumored that St. Patrick built a church here, yet many people pass by without giving it a second glance, and it’s well worth a visit to see the infamous “plaguey pit”, the “Friar’s Thorn” - a twisted thorn tree where mass was performed - and the “Friar’s Stone”, the grave of a priest who was shot in the heart whilst performing the
then-illegal ceremony.
You’ll immediately notice something far more modern when you arrive in town; the Belfast Wheel, a huge ferris structure much like the famous London Eye that is due to stay rotating at least through 2008.
For only £6 (around $11) you are spirited into the sky above City Hall, and from up high you can see the Black and Divis Mountains that surround the city, to say nothing of the famous Cavehill and Napoleon’s Nose. Ask a local exactly what on earth that is, and then puzzle over whether novelist Jonathan Swift got his inspiration for Gulliver’s Travels from the same view you are enjoying.
If you are driving during your stay, then a trip to Cavehill itself – and the 40-minute or so walk up to the summit - is really worth the effort. It’ll clear out the cobwebs, and the views are simply stunning. You’ll see Belfast Lough and the famous yellow cranes, Samson and Goliath, at the Harland and Woolf shipyard. If you are lucky, you might even see as far as the Isle of Man and the coast of Scotland.
The walk back down will certainly have earned you a pint at the wee bar inside Belfast Castle (where there are nine special cats to find in the garden), although there’s no need to be scared if you hear a roar: it’s not a banshee, it’s probably just Lily the lion, born at the nearby Belfast Zoo early last year, and recently joined by another pair of Barbary lion cubs.
For those of you looking to shop, there is the new 800,000 sq. ft Victoria Centre (complete with it’s own “pickle” design roof) due to open in March 2008. A major city redevelopment, it’s another clear sign of how Belfast has changed. Every major name is here (House of Fraser, Virgin Megastores, Hugo Boss, to name but a few), yet if you wander down Queen’s Arcade in the city centre or take a journey along the Lisburn Road, you can still find small and unique boutiques. IKEA have just opened their biggest UK store here, and Starbucks and endless other household names are here in force.
Come the night, it’s time for drinking, singing, dancing and a bit of the ol’ crack (good fun). A large student town - wander through beautiful Queens University and it’s grounds if you get a chance - Belfast has always been well-served in terms of clubs, pubs and restaurants, and this shines brightest on the “Golden Mile”, a short walk (or stagger) that begins at the top of Dublin Road and continues as far as you can go.
Almost every step of the way finds a bar, club, restaurant or music venue, but for more serious partying there are super clubs in the Odyssey Arena, a huge sports and entertainment facility that hosts club heaven (especially on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, says insider local knowledge: the best club right now is Box - check out it’s fog screen!).
If you’re looking for something a little more chilled to go with your cocktail, then look out at the City Hall from The Apartment Bar, or perhaps the Far Eastern-themed Bar Bacca is more your style. The sleek, exotic La Lea nightclub is recommended too, although the good word on the street says that the place to be is Stiff Kitten on the Dublin Road. It serves simple, comfort food during the day, and is the best place for local and big-name DJ’s at night.
For those who prefer something a little different for a night out, the recently opened Black Box changes from an inviting, comfy café during the day to an energetic music and arts venue at night. Local DJ David Holmes (the man behind the soundtracks for the Oceans’s 11, 12 and 13 films) may play here one night, then it could be the newest local discovery the next. The Belfast music scene is booming right now – Duke Special is due to perform at the February Oscar Wilde Awards and party in Los Angeles, slap bang in the middle of awards season - and if you prefer acoustic guitar, you can check out The Limelight and it’s neighbour, the Brake and Airspring.
For some “scran” (food) there are innumerable restaurants to try. Chinese food has always been popular here, but there’s everything else from fish and chips to fine dining, including the Gourmet Burger Bank (thirty years ago, that would have sounded like an oxymoron to a Belfastian!). If nothing else try an Ulster Fry for breakfast, and in the evening get some Irish stew and a pint of Guinness, then find a snug and enjoy the atmosphere at the recently refurbished Crown Bar – it’s the ultimate Belfast experience!
