Story: Sanibel Island: The sunshine state's southwest coast offers some soothing natural pleasures

White powder beaches, swaying palms, spectacular sunsets, shells by the zillions and small-town friendliness highlight the allures of Sanibel Island. A picturesque paradise on the Gulf of Mexico side of the Florida peninsula, and a short drive over a $6 toll causeway from Ft. Myers, a variety of leisure activities can be experienced free or at minimal cost as I discovered during a month-long stay in January, the perfect time of the year to visit.

For accommodations, I decided on a fully furnished, two-bedroom “tree house” that offered more of a personalized home-style taste of the island than a hotel. Conveniently located and reasonably priced, it was surrounded by a wonderland of nature, and just a short walk to one of several narrow lanes leading to shell-strewn beaches.

Sanibel is world famous for its abundance of unbroken, vibrant shells, found in all shapes and sizes. If you stroll the beach on any given day, you’ll see shell collectors of all ages walking along in a “stooped over” position with mesh bags in hand sifting through the surf for these treasures.

Once dominated by the Calusa Indians and Spanish explorers, Sanibel proudly calls itself, “The Shell Capital of the World.” The island’s unique curves brings tens of thousands of exotic shells of every size, shape and color—more than 150 species—onto pearly white beaches that are pretty much unspoiled.

To get a feel for the history and culture of shells down the centuries, take a stroll through the world-famous Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum. You can spend an hour or two exploring this unique museum that tells the history and culture of shells down the centuries. Exhibits show how shells have been used in art, jewelry, religious ceremonies, and furniture. Then head for the Great Hall of Shells where you’ll see a large revolving globe, which exhibits exotic shells washed up on far-flung beaches around the world.

The first morning I set out for Sanibel’s Lighthouse Beach, where serious shellers comb the beach at night by flashlight and disappear before dawn. At the tip of the island, it’s a fun spot for shelling, fishing and strolling. The 104-foot historic lighthouse, which islanders built in l884 to aid the mainland during its cattle-shipping trade, is Sanibel’s oldest standing structure. Here, you can watch the anglers catch fish off the public pier, and spot a variety of different birds. The area of Sanibel near the lighthouse, once the center of activity, is considered “Old Town Sanibel.” Most of Sanibel’s early pioneers passed through this point in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Sanibel also offers some of the most interesting birding in the United States. A major attraction is the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge with its 6,300 acres of unspoiled wetlands, mangrove jungles and island uplands. This sprawling refuge, home to 238 exotic bird species, 51 types of reptiles, and 32 kinds of mammals, was named after two-time Pulitzer Prize-winning editorial cartoonist Jay Norwood “Ding” Darling, also a devout conservationist who loved Sanibel with its narrow lanes arches with trees.

Wading birds such as the black-necked stilt and the American oystercatcher feed in the shallower mud flats. Hundreds of American alligators also live here, along with a pointy-jawed crocodile. Some of the refuge’s wildlife residents and visitors are easy to spot. Others are not. Hiking along one of the nature trails, I spotted both the pointy-jawed croc and several huge, wide-snouted gators sunning themselves along the edge of adjacent ponds. You can view this nature by bike, canoe and even radio guided automobile convoys. Also, there are kayak tours of the refuge, and motor and sale charters are available for fishing, sightseeing or shelling at offshore islets. To get information about those operations, log onto the Lee Island Coast Website (leeislandcoast.com) and search for links.

Tiny downtown Sanibel is a quaint, laid back community with a homespun atmosphere. There are some interesting shops, boutiques and patio restaurants specializing in local seafood products. Sanibel’s ever-growing colony of artists, poets and writers find inspiration here. Art-lovers are sure to enjoy the galleries that line the pedestrian friendly stretch.

For one of the best island tours, hop on a bicycle. The entire family can have fun on these well-maintained paradise pathways covering 25 miles of shopping districts and back roads. You can meander beneath shady tree canopies, across wooden bridges, along quiet waterways, and through friendly neighborhoods where you’ll find the people as warm as the weather. Bike shops on Sanibel rent anything from a single speed cruiser to the latest high-tech bike. Most resorts also have bike rentals on the premises. Getting to Sanibel is easy. You can drive across the causeway from Ft. Myers or arrive by boat.

The Sanibel Harbor Resort & Spa, a Victorian-style resort in Fort Myers, which overlooks the bay to Sanibel and Captiva, offers regular transportation to the island. You’ll find a variety of accommodations on the island from inland cottages to beachfront villas and condos. Always check on prices and ask about special packages and promotions for seasonal savings. Temperatures range in the high 70s to low 80s. The nearest airport is Fort Myers.

As the day winds down, head back to the beach, where you can watch the sun set in a blaze of purple and orange. Locals know it’s a perfectly glorious way to end the day – and I’m sure you’ll agree. If you’re looking for an escape from the chill of winter, and want a destination that offers more than just stunning beaches, head for Sanibel. You’ll feel swept away by the natural beauty all around you! Warmest regards.

The Sanibel & Captiva Central Reservations can be reached by phone at (800) 325-1352, or call the Islands Chamber of Commerce at (941) 472-1080. The Web site of the Sanibel Island Visitors Internet is www.sanibelisland.com.

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