Story: Museum hopping through Berlin

Given that my around the world trip prior to Europe was long on beaches and nightlife, and short on cultural immersion, the gears were shifted and I became a museum going fool once on the ground in Berlin. It was partly economics, as a paid entry to one state run museum is good for all others on that same day, and that all state museums are free for the last six hours of operation on Thursdays. Such a deal, thus I enjoyed contemporary art at the Neue Nationalgallerie, modern industrial design at the Kunstgewerbemuseum, great classic paintings and sculpture at Alte Nationalgallerie, amazing plundered and pilaged relics from Ancient Greece and Babylon painstakingly recreated and on display at the Pergamon and an overview of WWII's shattering after effects on the German people at the Deutsches Historisches Museum.

Apart from that which is on display in some of Berlin's magnificent museums, this entire city is of such a rich history, that you don't need to walk very far to come across a place of significant historic value. Remnants of the Wall remain in place all about the city, with a 1300m long stretch preserved as the East Side Gallery, covered in powerfully evocative graffiti. The foundation of the Gestapo building has been reborne as the "Topography of Terror" exhibit, recalling that building's not-so-pleasant past and around the corner from there, Hitler's imploded bomb shelter exist as an unmarked spot beneath the sidewalk. Unmarked as they wouldn't want it to become some sick shrine, but of course everyone can direct you there. A stone's throw away is the powerful and austere Holocaust Monument.

Beyond the big museums, an afternoon visit to the Art House Techeles, a partially bombed out building that was taken over by artist squatters with the fall of the Wall, it now houses workspace, galleries, bars and a cinema, and led to one of my favorite flavors of travel moments. A simple offer of "you need help with that?" led to an afternoon-into-evening session of frothy German brews at an old school pub with Tony, an artist from the UK who has lived here for the past eight years. He was trying to fix a crap display table for his collection of twisted collages, and in addition to a new friend, my offer enabled me to play with some power tools, which I kinda missed. I went back for visits frequently as the off beat vibe and creative spirit of Techeles spoke to me, and there was always something new to discover, either in the warren of filled-to-the-rafter rooms or in the junkyard cum art garden out back. Rarely was I bored.