Story: Wine Camp- A Camp For Adults

My family has a home in the Hamptons, on the South Fork of Long Island. One summer evening we drove to the North Fork to attend a Merlot of the World tasting at Lenz Vineyards. Besides enjoying the wines I noticed a table promoting Wine Camp. The idea intrigued me and so on an Indian summer day in October I returned to the area and joined 28 other campers for the “Special Harvest Edition of Wine Camp.” Sponsored by five members of the Long Island Wine Country Bed & Breakfast Group, along with ten wineries, this was the third year and 15th camp. Normally held March through July this four day event drew campers from Florida, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Georgia, Vermont, New Jersey and of course New York. The cost for the camp will be $829 in 2008. Several campers were celebrating an anniversary and one couple received the camp as a wedding gift. There were long time wine aficionados along with curious beginners.

The modern wine industry in Long Island was started in 1973 by Alex & Louise Hargrave when they planted 17 acres of vinifera vines (cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc) and in 1975 built the first winery- Hargrave Vineyards in Cutchogue. I remember interviewing them in 1976 and wondering if they knew what the future held for the Long Island wine industry. In 1999 they sold the winery and it was renamed Castello di Borghese. From that humble beginning the industry has grown to 60 vineyards and 50 wine producers. From 17 acres of vines to over 3,000. From a few hundred cases to over 500,000. From a few dozen stragglers to over 1.2 million visitors to the East End wineries annually.

Editors Note- Since there is now a custom crush facility on the North Fork, it is possible for someone to purchase grapes and have them made into wine, then sell them, without having a vineyard or an actual winery. Such a person is best described as a wine producer rather than a winery or a vineyard. By that definition there are some 50 wine producers. But there are still less than 25 full fledged winery estates that own their own vineyard and winemaking facility.

Long Island, New York’s “Bordeaux”, is located less than 90 miles east of New York City. The island separates into the North Fork (2,500 acres of vines & 40 wine producers) and a South Fork known as the Hamptons (200 acres & 4 wine producers). The Atlantic Ocean is on the south; Long Island Sound to the north and Great Peconic Bay separates the two forks. The influence of these bodies of water moderates the temperature and lead to a long growing season. The East End is ideal for growing Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Rieling.

The 28 guests stayed at the five Bed & Breakfasts that sponsor the Wine Camp. I was assigned to the Home Port B&B in Peconic. After checking in I headed to the first function of the camp- “Learn How to Taste Wine like the Experts” held at Raphael Vineyards. Winemaker Richard Olsen-Harbich is an old friend who conducted a wine tasting of Long Island wines several years ago for the Tasters Guild Chapter in New York City. This session was about swirling, smelling and tasting. A wine and food dinner followed at the Frisky Oyster in Greenport. It was not the season for oysters but the food was superb.

The next morning I met the other Wine Camp guests staying at Home Port for breakfast and it was off to Paumanok Vineyards for “The Evolution of Long Island’s Wine Region”. Co-owner Ursula Massoud talked about climate, varietals and the successes and disappointments of this family operation begun in 1983. Her husband Charles and their three sons were out in the vineyards supervising the picking. When Charles arrived to tape a television interview we spent some time reminiscing about the beginnings of the Long Island wine industry. I have written about their winery several times. “Preparing for the Harvest” was the topic Jamesport Winery owner Ron Goerler spoke about as we toured his vineyards, founded by his father in 1981. Winemaker Les Howard allowed us to start the process from grapes to wine by dumping crates of grapes into the stemmer/crusher. Lunch was served in the vineyards. The afternoon was spent at Pellegrini Vineyards for “The Vineyard after the Harvest”. We learned what happens in the vineyard after the harvest, through the winter to “bud break” in May. The evening was a “Do as You Please.”

The next morning it was roll up your sleeves and start picking grapes at The Old Fields Vineyards. It was off to the crush pad as the grapes became juice and eventually wine. Everyone has so much fun that no one wanted to stop. Our hosts the Baiz family was happy no one asked for union wages. Before lunch at Bedell Cellars it was “Fermentation: From Juice to Wine.” We learned what happens to the grapes after the crush and before the wine goes into the bottle. . The afternoon was spent at a new winery- Waters Crest where winemaker and owners Jim and Linda Waters explained the impact of oak barrels and what happens once the wine is blended. “The Winemaker’s Role.” Ann Marie and Marco Borghese hosted The Harvest “Pairing Food and Wine” Dinner at Castello di Borghese Vineyard and Winery. There were six different wines with five food courses.

The next morning it was one last tasting and the closing ceremonies at Lenz Winery. There was a mixed case of wine from the participating wineries for all and a Wine Camp T-shirt which I wore home. Everyone seemed to have a good time and the experience was quite educational. I have been teaching and writing about wine and travel for over 45 years but I still learned a lot, especially in the winemaking techniques. Being there during the harvest and having owners/winemakers take the time to talk and taste with all the campers was a wonderful experience. I am told that this is the only Wine Camp outside California . It is a worthwhile four days.

For More Information- www.winecamp.org -www.longislandwinecountrybandb.com– www.liwines.com – www.thefriskyoyster.com - www.northfork.org -www.raphaelwine.com – www.paumanok.com – www.jamesport-vineyards.com – www.pellegrinivineyards.com – www.waterscrestwinery.com – www.theoldfield.com – www.bedellcellars.com – www.borghesevineyards.com – www.lenzwine.com