Story: Bagan by Buggy

Perhaps seeing all of Bagan’s two thousand plus temples by horse drawn cart would be traveling a little too slowly. In fact, the only way to see all of the wonders of this ancient site of karma-fueled building is to take a hot air balloon ride. Unfortunately for us, we were in Bagan during the searing month of April, when temperatures averaged above 100 degrees and the balloons were grounded. A much cheaper and year-round alternative is to traverse the immense plain of diverse Buddhist monuments by horse drawn cart.

Finding a cart and driver will not be a problem as there are always a few loitering outside of the hotels. Don’t worry too much about bargaining, the price for a full day of touring will be embarrassingly low compared to a cab ride back home. The drivers know which temples are best, but are more than happy to take you to any that your guide book insists upon. One thing you will notice immediately is the unique sound they employ to get their horses to move. Rather than the familiar “giddyup”, they make a sound I can only describe as a sort of “eyoooh!” One nice thing about the heat of April is that it keeps the tourist numbers unbelievably low and the scourge of travel – the tour bus – is almost non-existent. In fact, we only saw one tour bus the entire time and they were local tourists from the capital. Instead we ran into the same independent travelers we had seen in Mandalay and Yangon, providing dinner companions to exchange our day’s adventures with.

The temples you will see are the result of a feverish pace of building by the devout Buddhist kings that ruled Bagan during the 11th through 13th centuries. The plain encompasses approximately 16 sq miles and at its height was believed to boast over 4000 temples. Over the centuries earthquakes, neglect, and tomb raiders have taken their toll, but the site’s impressiveness has not dimmed. The stupas house painted murals and myriad style of Buddhas, providing plenty to see over a few days. You will be able to explore most of these monuments in blissful solitude, but the major ones will have a few people selling trinkets and an entrepreneurial kid or two willing to show you around. You must take your shoes off before entering, so wear flip flops and try to walk in the shadows to avoid the sun-baked stones. If you are into photography, be sure to bring a tripod for dim-lit shots inside and the spectacular sunsets outside.

The advantages of traveling by horse cart are many. The people in Burma are extremely poor and by hiring your own horse cart you are not only helping the driver, but your conscience as well. Many tourists struggle with the decision of whether to visit Burma because of the political situation. From what I witnessed, the local people desperately need outside money and want to engage with foreigners. Hiring a horse cart driver employs individuals directly, is good for the environment, and promotes sustainable tourism. It also provides the flexibility that a motorized vehicle cannot. When the one tour bus we did see went rumbling past us in a cloud of dust, we simply turned down a winding path through the scrub towards some lesser-known temples. The peaceful clop of the horse’s hooves and the jingle of the reigns lull you into the rhythms of local life all around you. The pace is slow and relaxed and you may be passed by someone on a bicycle singing as they go, or a mother balancing her basket of firewood while carrying her baby.

Bagan (also known as Pagan) is located 118 miles south of Mandalay and 430 miles north of Yangon. It is hemmed in by the Irrawwady river to the north and west, and a nice way to reach it is by a day-long boat trip from Mandalay. You can spend a few days exploring the different styles of temples and there is a half-day trip to nearby Mount Popa. If you are there from October through March you can float over the temples by balloon with Balloons Over Bagan (www.easternsafaris.com).