Photo Essay: Moel Siabod

Walking in Wales is different from walking anywhere else in Britain. It doesn't have the height or the instant wow factor of the Scottish Highlands, or the twee biscuit-tin charm of the English Lake District, but it does have plenty to offer.

Snowdon is the name that most people will mention when the subject of walking in Wales comes up. And with good reason. It’s a great mountain, a fun day out and steeped in history of mountaineering. It is also busier than the London Underground during rush hour. Now there are those who bemoan every other person on the hill, as if that person’s sole purpose in life was to ruin your day merely by being there. I am definitely not one of those people. I am happy to greet people with a friendly hello or pass the time of day with them. On Snowdon, however, this is impossible due to the sheer numbers. Sometimes you just need your own space.

I don't think Richard wanted to tell me about Moel Siabod at first. Like surfers with their 'secret spots', hill walkers will sometimes keep routes to themselves; out of the way places where they can be alone with nature. They especially may not want to tell loud mouths who document each route on a blog. But Richard couldn't hold it in. "Probably the best walk I have ever done!". Now Richard walks a lot. This guy would organise a wild camp into a trip to the corner shop. So when he says this I immediately get interested. I prise the details out of him, and the following weekend I leave work, jump in the camper van and make for Betws-y-coed in North Wales.

Next morning it’s onto the train for the short ride to Dolwyddellan, where the walk begins leading you up into the hills. It’s not hard to see why Richard rated the walk so highly. This really does have everything. Forest walks opening into exposed mountain carved by cascading waterfalls, scrambles which allow you to pretend that you are a real climber without having to 'touch the void', lakes, beautiful mountain lakes around which the ubiquitous mountain goats gather and the eerie ghost towns of long forgotten mines and quarries.

The quarries are the places that used to provide so much of the economy for the mountain people of North Wales. Even today Welsh slate commands high prices and is highly sought, but in the 19th century the mountains were alive with industry. Today the mountains and towns bear the scars of this industry with the black rocks rising like tombstones to the jobs and communities which are no more. But also it proves how resilient and defiant this stone is - the ancient buildings still standing proud within their surroundings as a testament to a people and a place.

Moel Siabod has another treat as well. It is not afraid of showing walkers what they could have had. It shows Snowdon and other popular and very beautiful areas such as Tryfan. It shows these ranges beautifully, but never do you feel that you made the wrong choice. You know that you are on the right mountain.

On the walk down, I share Richard’s enthusiasm for the walk, but at the same time I can’t share his desire for this place to remain unknown. Its emptiness for me is almost sad. A place with this many stories to tell should surely have people to tell them to. Sorry Richard.