Photo Essay: The Charm of Hoi An's Old Town

Even the name “Hoi An”, when said aloud, may strike one as a work of art. Like so many other two-syllable cities and towns in Vietnam, there is an almost delicate ring to it. Hear fellow travelers say it often enough – and if in Vietnam you will, since it is a favorite destination – you can easily envision a waterfront filled with the delightful curves of conical hats, and streets echoing with history and grace.

Hoi An was once one of Southeast Asia's greatest ports. In the 17th century you would have found traders from places such as China, the Netherlands, India, and Japan on its docks and streets, but when its harbor silted up in the 19th century the town turned into a backwater. Then in the early 1990s, when the Vietnamese government began to promote tourism, Hoi An reemerged with an artistic flare. Talented artists and tailors have set up shop throughout the Old Town, and atmospheric restaurants line the riverfront.

One of the remarkable aspects of Hoi An is that it has kept its quiet charm despite Vietnam’s thunderous economic activity (which has led to haphazard development in many other parts of the country). The government has done a laudable job of preserving Hoi An’s appeal, even prohibiting cars from the Old Town. Further buttressing preservation efforts was the city’s 1999 designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

If not taking in art galleries, getting fitted for inexpensive but high quality clothes, or exploring one of several Chinese assembly halls (Hoi An was the first place Chinese settled in southern Vietnam), many travelers hop on rental bikes and make the two-mile jaunt to the beach, especially toward day's end. But perhaps the best thing about Hoi An -- even better than its food, even better than the Pacific Ocean lapping amidst palm trees down the road -- is how the late afternoon light falls on the town. As the midday heat begins to wane and soft sunlight angles its way into streets and alleys, the buildings transform into captivating works of art themselves, gently exerting a soothing affect on those who walk among them.

Around sunset -- when galleries begin to close, the local food market empties of people, and riverfront ferries fill with local commuters returning to homes across the river -- head to one of the riverfront restaurants and enjoy a local beer for less than 20 cents. The sun will be setting off to your right, and you'll know another day in Vietnam's most charming town is done.