Story: The dawning of the Ages - Spring Equinox at Mnajdra Temples

The alarm was set for 4am. I’d have enough time for a quick shower and a cup of coffee, both necessary to wake me up, before heading towards the temples of Mnajdra to welcome the Spring Equinox. I arrived there at 5.15 am and saw quite a few cars in the car park at this unusual hour. I joined a group of about 50, surprisingly mostly local people and not tourists, waiting for the temple custodians to open the gate. It was biting cold and damp this 21 March with a wind blowing in from the sea. The temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra are part of a complex of three temples, in close proximity to each other, 500m apart and situated on the cliffs just past the village of Zurrieq on the South of the Island of Malta. Hagar Qim, is believed to be dedicated to the seven Kabiri as seven small statues were excavated inside its chambers. This temple is situated at the top of the hill and dates back to 3200-2500 B.C. Mnajdra Temple, which is thought to be dedicated to the Phoenician goddess Eshmun, is older at 3600-3200 B.C. is at the bottom of a long path and close to the sea. All relics excavated at this site can now be found on display at the Museum of archaeology in the Capital Valletta.

We made for a ghostly procession, all wearing thick jackets, hoods and scarves, following each other silently in the darkness. We don't have druids here but this would do nicely. We first passed in front of Hagar Qim temple, whose megaliths stood mysterious and silent in the darkness and then walked towards the path that would lead to the other temple of Mnajdra. I could imagine Neolithic man, huddled in skins and furs walking down the same path over 4000 years ago. I liked to think we were walking in silence in reverence to the amazing human beings who built these temples without the modern industrial machinery we see in modern man’s building sites. The temples were built before the age of metal as no metal tools or objects were ever excavated on the sites.

At the end of the path we went through another fenced gate which protects Mnajdra Temples from unwanted intruders. The whole site of the temples is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and of great archaeological and historical importance. The area surrounding the complex is a designated Heritage park. The marking of the Equinox and Solstices have become very popular judging from the number of camera crews who set up their cameras and equipment in front of the entrance which would see the first rays of the sun beaming through the entrance.

The darkness of the sky was quickly changing as dawn approached. Everyone was looking worriedly at the clouds amassed on the East. This would ruin the occasion by blocking the sun’s rays from giving us the spectacle we had all come to witness.

The historian from the Heritage Department purposely there to guide and lecture on the amazing history of this place, informed that we might want to go inside the doorway where the sun would shine its rays through. We all patiently waited shuffling our feet against the cold and dampness. The spirits of Neolithic man must have helped to blow those few clouds away as the first glimmer of light began to show. I could feel the excitement of the crowd around me. The camera crews stationed outside started their filming and commentary in front of their cameras.

We weren’t disappointed when the moment arrived. The first rays shone directly and magically through the doorway and straight into a room at the back bearing an altar. Cameras were really clicking now, accompanied by excited voices of wonderment at how geometrically perfect it had all been built, all to mark the arrival of the seasons. The first glows of the sun at dawn only increased the magic of the place by turning everything golden. It is not just the temples that make the place look spectacular. The panorama over the cliffs and the sea is rugged and beautiful, with the small Island of Filfla a short distance out at sea.

I know that many historical buildings and structures have been built with these special astrologically aligned orientations, but I still feel that Mnajdra must be one of the most magical places to witness these events due to the age when the temples were built. Although unknown by many, it is thought to be the oldest free standing structure in the history of mankind. The large concentration of such temples dotted on such a small island as Malta makes it all the more amazing.

The guiding by the professional staff of Heritage Malta is a bonus. I would always suggest you visit these and any of the other temples with a licensed guide since they receive special training and instructions on the subject. There are many features that are not visible to the eye when inside the temples at ground level. An aerial view shows the design of the temples in the shape of the goddess of fertility, statues of which have been found in several archaeological digs. Such details can be further appreciated when properly explained.

Both temples are being restored and closed to the public until September, except on the days of the Solstice and Equinox when they will be opened for these special occasions. The next event is the Summer Solstice on 21st June. Tickets cost about EUR 12 per person. They have to be booked and paid in advance from the desk at the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. You can book a taxi from your hotel to take you there. Be sure to arrive at around 5am. Wear comfortable shoes and dress warmly. Last but not least, make sure you charge the batteries on your camera. This is one occasion you’ll not want to miss.

Further information can be found on www.heritagemalta.org