Story: Amsterdam: Dutch Decadence

The Dutch may have dominated world trade in the 1600s before bringing number of forward-thinking views on prostitution and soft drugs to modern society, but Amsterdam is now experiencing a renaissance of a different kind. Boutique shops are en vogue and flourishing; cutting edge cuisine is changing the city’s reputation; all the while, Amsterdam continues to embrace its coloured heritage. Join Everywhere correspondent Andrew Hayes for a glitterati weekend in Amsterdam.

Friday

Arrive early enough in the afternoon to freshen up and relax, as your Friday night has a full agenda. You’re staying at the Pulitzer, one of the city’s most unique and fabulous hotels. The hotel is situated in the Jordaan quarter off the Keizersgracht and has a supreme location for exploring the city centre. Built by connecting 25 old canal houses, you’ll definitely feel Amsterdam’s architectural past (most rooms have bare wooden beams and a random brick wall or two). Have no worries, though, the Pulitzer is full of modern amenities, including its own courtyard garden and art gallery.
Once you’ve settled, head out towards the Dam Square – only a 5 minute walk –to begin the evening’s festivities. A narrow street off the square, called the Nes, is home to the modern, clean lines chic Bubbles & Wines champagne bar. With over 50 wines available by the glass (and 180 by the bottle), you will have no problem finding a selection. The staff are knowledgeable for a recommendation, or try my suggestion – the champagne flight – which will prep your palate for dinner. After a few well-deserved flutes to erase any travel fatigue, head back out to the Nes, where dinner is only steps away at the Brasserie Harkema. Formerly a tobacco factory, you wouldn’t know it now—especially after seeing the alluring wall of wine. Dishes are light, refreshing Dutch interpretations on classic Parisian entrees. Walk the long way home via the canals (‘grachten’) that you pass on your way back to the Pulitzer, enjoying the reflection of the lights on the water.

Saturday

Breakfast is provided by the hotel, and it exceeds expectation, particularly with the delicious meats and Dutch cheeses. Saturday is a popular shopping day in Amsterdam, but you won’t be joining the masses on Kalverstraat (the busiest) or P.C. Hoofstraat (the most upscale). The best shopping to be had is out your front doorstep in the Negen Straatjes, or the Nine Streets. These quaint alleyways straddle the main canal network but offer exclusive boutique shopping in unbeatable Amsterdam style. Where better to spend the day than wandering in and out of canal houses? Vintage clothing, handmade jewelry, and antique housewares are just a few of the items on offer. Cafes and bars are interspersed at regular intervals to ensure you maintain momentum. If it is art you are looking for, I suggest heading slightly north on the Prinsengracht to Go Gallery, whose curators always seem to have their eye on the next greatest thing.
Cool your heels at the Pulitzer’s bar (complete with canalside views) before heading out for another evening to remember. Koets Taxi will pick you up from the Pulitzer in a horse drawn carriage and will take you via the scenic route (although in my experience, there are few non-scenic routes) to the Olympic Stadium on the southside of Amsterdam. The stadium is home to the smart, trendy bar and restaurant Vak Zuid, where Asian chic and modern French come together. Try to relax in the bar with a drink before sitting down to eat; there’s no rush, almost every table has a view of the stadium track.
Grab a taxi and end the night on a high point at the Hotel Arena, a hotel/bar/restaurant with a flashy nightclub frequented by many local celebrities. You’ll soon find out why Dutch DJs are famous across Europe and indeed you might see some of them here as well.

Sunday

Clear your head with brunch at fashionable cafe 11, named so because it is on the 11th floor of the Post CS Building east of Centraal Station. It offers sweeping views of the city alongside steaming cups of coffee. When finished, stimulate your cultural side by heading downstairs and enjoying the modern art exhibitions in the Stedelijk Museum. This rough, industrial venue heightens the experience, but the impressive installations don’t need any help.
Amsterdam Sunday afternoons are often lazy, spent lingering over drinks and enjoying conversation before some jazz in the evening, and there is no reason why you shouldn’t join the locals in enjoying exactly that. Cafe De Jaren is a central, airy cafe—a place to be seen—and has wonderful soups and sandwiches if you are still hungry. Just before dusk, head down the Amstel to Frenzi, where locals churn out some of the best jazz notes in town. What a perfect way to remember the remarkable renaissance happening in this Dutch capital.
Writer’s Note: Most Amsterdam restaurants have limited seating due to the typical small building sizes. Reservations are always recommended to avoid disappointment.

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