How To: Belfast by Land, Sea and Air

Only in Belfast for a day? Or even just a few hours? I set out to explore this hidden Victorian gem by land, sea and air in less than three hours – and I managed it for well under £50 (about $95). The city’s a popular short break destination, a regular stop now for cruise ships, and Continental run flights out of Newark. Either way, I wanted to see as much as I could.

I began my land, sea and air assault by booking one of the famous black taxi tours; they will pick you up from wherever you like and can even take you out to the Giant’s Causeway or beyond if you have time (and the fare).

Belfast By Land
The former London black cabs are a common sight here, and a local driver/guide takes your round. The Political “terror” tours are the best known - they visit the Protestant Shankill Road and Catholic Falls Road, taking in murals and the peace wall to give you a taste of what life was like during “The Troubles”, as my driver Richard (“born and bred on the Shankill”) noted:

“I’ve seen riots, gun battles – all around this area. I’ve seen things I don’t wanna see again”.

Other trips such the Cultural and Historical Tours look into the ancient past, visit the shipyard where the world famous Titanic was built, and showcase the rejuvenated city:

“Years back, 20,000 men used to walk into Harland and Woolf shipyard every day to work. In ten years time you won’t recognise the place. It won’t be industrial anymore, there’s going office blocks, apartments, a Titanic Museum.”

Belfast By Sea
Aside from Van Morrison, Kenneth Branagh, Ciaran Hinds and soccer legend George Best, Belfast’s most famous export is the steamship Titanic (“it was all right when it left here!”) and I was dropped off right at the good ship Joyce Too.

After stepping onboard we were all soon motoring up the Lagan River (Belfast is named from the Irish Béal Feirste, meaning “sandy ford at river mouth”) and listening to Don, the knowledgeable Ulster Historical Association guide, talking about the history of what was once the biggest docks in the world. Soon enough we came to the shipyard and it’s weather-worn slipways and ancient cranes that once helped the mammoth Titanic and endless other ships into the waters below.

At the end of the tour we passed alongside the recently-rescued SS Nomadic. The final White Star Line vessel afloat, it was used to transport the first class passengers onto the Titanic and is now undergoing renovation:

“Thousands came to see it when it was built. The workers who built it themselves didn’t even have such luxuries as electricity, indoor toilets or hot running water – and the journey time from shore to ship was only a few minutes!”

Disembarking I take the short walk from Donegall Quay past the leaning Albert Clock - this is a city built on mud, remember - and head back to the unmistakable City Hall (the designer was also responsible for the White House, according to legend) to take a ride above the city.

Belfast By Air
Okay, so this is a bit of cheat. There are no wings or propellers involved, but a spin on the newest and biggest tourist attraction in town, the Belfast Wheel, is close enough. In the course of a 10-minute ride I saw many of the sights I had seen earlier, but from 60 meters up in the air.

In one direction is Cave Hill (the supposed inspiration for Gulliver’s Travels by Jonathan Swift; ask a local about Napoleon’s Nose too), in another you can see the dome of the new Victoria Centre - a shopper’s paradise; the Observation Deck is worth climbing the 96 stairs for too - and another gives you the chance to look out across Belfast Lough and see the two beloved icons of Belfast, the huge, yellow shipyard cranes known as Samson and Goliath. If it’s a good day, you may even catch a glimpse of the Scottish coast and if it’s windy, you’ll feel like you’re on a fairground ride!

Now back on firm ground I remembered the final words of black taxi driver Richard when I asked him about the ten years of peace in Belfast, and if things are really different:

“They did a survey recently, asking people each side of the Peace Wall whether they wanted it to come down. They said no. But then a couple of weeks back, there were some mustard (crazy) extreme sport fellas bungee jumping off Samson and Goliath. I tell you boy, Belfast’s really changing!”

The wind and the sea air had given me a thirst and I went in search of a drink. My choices included the most expensive cocktail in the world (available at the five star Merchant Hotel - there are 12 shots left at £750 a pop) or a pint of Guinness at the National Trust-owned Crown Bar in Great Victoria Street (most people choose the latter!).

Sidebars:
Black Taxi Tour
Duration: 60-90 minutes - Times and days by appointment
£25 per person, £8 each for 3/4/5/6 passengers
www.belfasttours.com
02890 642264

Titanic Tour
60-75 mins – Hours depending on day and season
Adults £10, Children £8
www.laganboatcompany.com
07718 910423

Belfast Wheel
10 mins – Daily 10am – 9pm
Adults £6, Children £4
www.worldtouristattractions.co.uk
02890 310607

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