Story: Finding Lebanon.

Shannon Dagher

By Shannon Dagher
Written on 2 December 2007
2 favorites, 540 views

Plagued by decades of war, the tiny Mediterranean country of Lebanon continues to surprise and survive, finding its own way in the turbulent Middle-Eastern region and 21st-century.

Lebanese Pride.

Lebanese Pride.

A small tribute (flag & rose) to Lebanon atop Harissa (Arabic حريصا). Harissa is an important Lebanese pilgrimage site high above Jounieh, located at 650 meters altitude from the coast and 20 km distance from Beirut the capital city; the site is accessible either by a steep winding road or a nine-minute journey by a gondola lift, known as the "Téléférique".

Granted independence from France in 1941 following World War II, Lebanon initially prospered as a new nation. Lebanon quickly established itself as the Southwest Asian entrepôt and banking hub. Beirut, Lebanon’s capital city, was lovingly nicknamed the “Paris of the Middle East” due to its European atmosphere of sidewalk cafes and popular nightclubs; identifying itself much more with its former European colonizers than it’s surrounding Arab neighbors. My grandfather, owner & operator of a travel & tour business for over 40 years, guided many tours in & around Beirut from the 1950s-1970s; the hey-day for both tour-guide travel & Beirut. He remembered fondly his time in Lebanon over the years, describing it as, “The Bridge connecting East & West” and the "Switzerland of the Middle East" due to its financial power.

The fairytale was not to last, however. From 1975-1990, a civil war seriously damaged Lebanon's economic infrastructure, cut national output in half, and all but shattered Lebanon's once-notable position in the world. The tourists stopped coming, foreign banking clients stopped investing, and the Port of Beirut’s trading was dormant. When the war ended the 90’s became a time of great prosperity for Lebanon; there were extensive efforts to revive the economy and rebuild national infrastructure. Relative peace continued for 15-years, during which the Lebanese people were making up for lost time, working hard to regain their lost years of prosperity and pleasure and reestablish themselves as a tourist destination and commerce center. By the rise of 2006 a considerable degree of stability had been achieved throughout much of the country, Beirut's reconstruction was almost complete, and an increasing number of foreign tourists were pouring into Lebanon's resorts. The Lebanese anticipated the summer of 2006 to bring tourists flooding back into Lebanon’s beautiful countryside, but instead, they tragically witnessed another war douse their rebuilding effort. According to Wikipedia.org, “The 2006 war between Israel and Hezbollah brought mounting civilian and military casualties, extensive damage to civilian infrastructure, and massive population displacement from July 12, 2006 until a ceasefire went into effect on August 14, 2006.”

Despite all this, the Lebanese people remain the most inviting, warm, fun-loving, proud, generous and independent people I have ever met. I have had the excellent fortune of knowing Lebanon, throughout its history, due in part to my family; first through my grandfather, and now through my husband and extended family…who are Lebanese. My two trips to Lebanon to date, in the summer of 2005 & November 2007, have established a love so deep for a place and a people I could have never imagined it for myself. To experience Lebanon is to be immersed in beauty, love and greatness.

Surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea to its left, Syria to its north & east and Israel (Palestine) to its south, Lebanon has a history predating the Bible. The Phoenicians, Lebanon’s ancient people, created the Phoenician alphabet which is the ancestor of virtually all modern alphabets. There are currently 5 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Lebanon, with 9 more awaiting approval; not bad for a country barely 4,000 sq. miles in size! Lebanon’s moderate Mediterranean climate & infamous, healthy cuisine only add to this country’s rich offerings. As for safety, I’m a caucasian, female traveler and have found Lebanon and it’s people to be nothing short of fascinating, tolerant, westernized, beautiful, exotic, and with a rich history to tell. Having traveled the country extensively both before & after the most recent fighting, I can say enthusiastically that the Lebanese spirit is alive and well.

After a cosmopolitan birth and turbulent teenage years, Lebanon finally seems to be finding her way in the World. Throughout her history as a nation, those bigger & stronger have tried to control or oppress her, but Lebanon has evaded capture. She is small, but mighty in heart. She is beautiful, but fiercely strong and independent. She is East and West. She is Muslim and Christian. Lebanon is everyday evolving into the country she has always wanted to be; free. Lebanon: “Paris of the Middle East”? No more. And she’s starting to like that even better…

To find more of Lebanon on the web, visit:

http://www.dailystar.com.lb/

http://www.downtownbeirut.com/

http://shoofimafi.com/

http://www.lbcgroup.tv/

Other photos in this article...

Tripoli Souk, Lebanon Pigeon Rocks, Raouché, Lebanon Souk Vendor, Tripoli, Lebanon Arghileh Glass; Sarba, Lebanon. Lebanese Youth. Harissa, Lebanon Produce Vendor, Tripoli, Lebanon Jounieh, Lebanon (sepia) Tripoli Housing, Lebanon

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