Story: Absolutely Wild

Peering down over miles of steep bluffs careening down to a magnificent harbor below, I thought of the dozen-plus mountainous miles my brother Chris and I had already traversed along California’s Eastern Santa Cruz Island in the past twenty-four hours. But realizing the present opportunity I quickly mustered up the courage to trek the several miles more to the secluded shore and back

Meeting my brother at his Los Angeles home a few days prior, our island visit’s purpose was two-fold: To celebrate Chris’ thirtieth birthday and catch up on some much-needed brother bonding. Having ended the relationship with his long-term girlfriend a few days before the backpacking birthday extravaganza, I figured a few hard hikes and three-hundred-and-sixty-degree vista views might provide some clarity for the confusing days ahead.

Santa Cruz is the largest of five uninhabited islands that make up the Channel Islands National Park, a baronial straggle situated about twenty five miles off the coast of Santa Barbara in the Pacific. A natural oasis, don’t let the National Park’s “island” tag fool you: there are no white sands and umbrellas. Though the park’s Pacific climate is decidedly tropical, the lay of the land is surprisingly not. Where some vacationers might expect a banana tree and bamboo, the California islands’ look more like the exquisite design of its mother mainland, catering to the backpacker’s affinity for Western sprawl and burly peaks.

The islands’ host no resorts, no facilities, no modes of transportation and virtually no persons. With an average of less than 250,000 visitors per year (a nominal amount compared to any other US national park), the park islands are remote, available mainly to those who seek out its undeveloped pleasures.

Due to its au naturale expose, the islands’ induce a truly “wild” experience, quelling any outdoorsman’s craving. The islands’ conservative landscape provides a home for over 145 endemic species of vegetation and wildlife, coves of sea lions, schools of dolphins, convocation of bald eagles and pods of whales. Though we spent the bulk of our time backpacking (packers carry all supplies on and off the island), the park hosts a wide range of outdoor recreation: snorkeling, kayaking, day hikes and sailing can be done alone or with a guide.

Campsites permeate the islands with easier access sites close to drop-off docks and limited backcountry slots situated further inland. Local outfitters regularly boat nature enthusiasts to all five islands and helicopters are available for those with deeper pockets.

The Channel Islands’ sparse order high above the Pacific tide afforded my brother and I absolute calm, capturing our undivided attention and propelling us to adventure across its boundary. And while hiking the up and down of the dusty paths we discovered the expensive gift of time and space ready to indulge our discussion, debates and decisions – realizing any mountain can be climbed one step at a time.

nps.gov/chis
islandpackers.com