Story: A Glorious Greek Festival

Kathryn Radeff

By Kathryn Radeff
Written on 19 May 2008
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Every year, an elaborate lively celebration takes place on the lovely Spring Bayou in the Greek community of Tarpon Springs, Florida.

It’s a fantastic event, called Epiphany, which comes from the Greek, and means ‘arrival.’ Celebrated on the 6th of January, thousands of people from all over the world flock to the shores of the Bayou for this exciting Greek observance of a religious holiday, and also to see about 50 young Greek boys leap out of a semi-circle of small boats, then scramble to retrieve the white cross. One will bring the cross back to the Archbishop for a blessing and assurance of good fortune for the coming year. After the ceremony, the crowd drifts to the world-famous, exotic Sponge Docks for an afternoon of feasting on Greek food and dancing. One of the area’s most famous sites—the historic Sponge Exchange—is a colorful and vibrant area on the docks. Once the trading center of the local sponge industry, the Sponge Exchange today is home to more than 100 chic shops and 15 lively restaurants with something for everyone. Here’s where the scent of oregano and grilled lamb waft from the doors of eateries and outdoor cafes as shoppers inspect imported delicacies, visit art galleries, antique shops, and other shops stocked with gifts while the latest Greek music competes for attention.Located on Dodecanese Boulevard just off Route 19, visitors will find beautiful affordable Indian and Greek crafts that make ideal souvenirs. Don’t miss a chance to enjoy a colorful performance by traditional Greek dancers, or take a leisurely sightseeing cruise down the Anclote River, where native Indians and settlers sought safe harbor and experienced plentiful fishing and hunting in the mid l9th century. Even more appealing is the experience of watching a live, sponge diving exhibition, or a visit to the 120,000-gallon salt-water aquarium. The celebration ends in the evening with a formal Epiphany Ball.

My grandfather, a well-known Greek artist, spoke often of his love for Tarpon Springs, located just north of St. Petersburg. “The sea,” he’d say, “is a violet blue, and the sky turquoise. At the water’s edge along the beaches, you can hear empty shells whisper when waves turn them.” The spectacular scenery was captured in some of his early paintings.

Known as the “Venice of the South” with its brilliant waterways, crystal clear spring bayous, lakes, and inlets, Tarpon Springs is a fascinating blend of artistic masterpieces and modern day marvels.

Tarpon Springs was once a playground for wealthy Northerners who built luxurious estates along Spring Bayou. The area has the feel of a true Grecian fishing village. You’ll find Sunset Beach, at the west end of Gulf Road, perfect for a morning stroll or run, and a favorite for picnics, swimming, and boat launching. One of the area’s most popular spots, people often go there to view the spectacular sunsets.
Feeling adventurous? Exciting activities include windsurfing and deep-sea fishing. Or savor the fresh ocean air as you bike ride, jog, skate or walk along the Pinellas Trail that winds through the town extending from Tarpon Springs to St. Petersburg.
Scenic Fred Howard Park, west of Florida Avenue, is equally impressive. A mile-long causeway connects the mainland part of the 150-acre park with the beach area. You’ll find plenty of secluded spots to while away a pleasant afternoon. Tarpon Springs also offers some of the most interesting birds and natural Florida foliage. Not only is Tarpon Springs known for good food at reasonable prices, it’s also one of the most architecturally and culturally beautiful places in Florida. Lake Tarpon still looks much as it did when the Duke of Southerland fell in love with its lush vegetation. He bought 30 acres and built an estate overlooking the water where he could fish, hunt, and be at peace.

There are several must-sees during a visit.The Victorian Homes and graceful Golden Crescent mansions–built in the l800s by many well-known industrialists and founders of Tarpon Springs—still stand today and are lovingly maintained by some of the area’s oldest families.

Tarpon Springs was born in l881, when prominent northern developer Hamilton Disston bought four million acres of land from the State of Florida. Shortly after, Disston and his associates began transforming the area around Spring Bayou into a thriving winter resort and health center. Anson P.K. Safford, the first territorial governor of Arizona, became a resident and was responsible for much of the area’s cultural and civic development. Tarpon Springs has long been a vacation destination for wealthy northerners who came each year to escape harsh winters. The area continued to grow with the influx of the Greek sponge industry. Since l890 when John K. Cheney, an associate of the Disston Corporation, discovered harvesting sponges growing in the gulf waters could make money, the area has thrived. Young Greek divers were brought to Tarpon Springs from the islands of Greece to harvest the beds. Today, Tarpon Springs still maintains its reputation as the largest natural sponge market in the world.

If you’re looking to soak up some history, visit the historical heart of downtown Tarpon Springs, now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. When you reach downtown, you’ll find a varied collection of antique stores, intriguing art galleries, restaurants, cafes, quaint motels and spacious Bed & Breakfast establishments lining the seven-block area that features buildings from the late 1800s. And during this time, world-renowned landscape artist George Inness and his son George Jr., called Tarpon Springs home. Several magnificent landscape oil paintings were donated to the Universalist Church, where visitors are welcome to view the paintings.Downtown Tarpon Springs is also a magnet for creative people. The pressed-in ceilings and brick walls are a perfect backdrop for the amazing variety of items from the days gone by in stores providing space for nearly 150 antique dealers. The diverse and unique collection of high-quality specialty shops add further interest. The best way to experience the city of Tarpon Springs is by foot. Most people park in the Main Street area to enjoy the historical ambience, and then drive to the Sponge Docks to take in the city’s ethnic atmosphere.

I travel to Tarpon Springs every year, and with its sparkling white-sand beaches along the Gulf of Mexico coast, sultry breezes that fan palm trees, and authentic Greek cuisine, it’s a scenic spot that offers awesome sites, numerous attractions, and activities you’ll never forget.

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