Story: Surfing at the Jersey Shore

"Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave." ~ Paul Walker

Surfing…A watersport which has been around for thousands of years, believe it or not. Many believe that the sport of surfing began more than 4,000 years ago in the South Pacific when people would float on their knees on items such as single logs or bunches of reeds to travel from place to place, but standing while riding the waves was not perfected until around 1000 AD in Hawaii (Heimann, Jim. Surfing. Tashen Publishers, 2004, Page 3). Europeans were introduced to surfing around 1779 when British traders and explorers witnessed the natives riding the waves (Heimann 3). The popularity of surfing has grown ever since, along with the laid-back lifestyle and attitudes that surfers typically enjoy. Surfing is evident in all aspects of culture, from artwork and clothing to music and photographs. Think of iconic musicians Jack Johnson, Beach Boys, Dick Dale (King of the Surf Guitar), and Jan and Dean, the movies “Endless Summer” and “Point Break,” and today’s surfing superstars Kelly Slater and Bruce Irons and you can clearly see the influence of surfing on modern culture. It is even rumored that legendary author Mark Twain was interested in surfing, or as he referred to it, in "surf bathing."

The Jersey Shore, particularly in Monmouth and Ocean counties, is a place where surfing lives and breathes every day. Locals and visitors alike embrace each and every chance to catch some waves, even during poor weather, and bond with the water. Surfing is life, but those new to surfing at the Jersey Shore need to realize that before one is accepted into the surfing circle, he or she needs to practice both the skills and etiquette of surfing in Jersey.

Newcomers to the sport of surfing should make sure they have the proper equipment and excellent swimming skills. Longboards generally are easier to learn the sport of surfing on, along with having essential gear such as a leash, wetsuit (spring suit or full suit), plenty of wax, and a surfing buddy to ensure safety. Before paddling out and hitting the waves full on, it is a good idea to watch first to see where the good breaks occur, as well as to observe where other surfers, jetties or sandbars may be so that you know where to catch the great waves without risking injury. Always be patient and wait your turn in the line, otherwise you risk not only injuring yourself and others, but also irritating other surfers around you. Also, be sure to check the rules for surfing at the particular beach you are at. Some Jersey Shore beaches allow surfing only in certain areas and during certain hours, and believe me, you do not want to break the rules along the Jersey Shore.

If you are ready to surf the Jersey Shore, there are plenty of great spots to check out but be ready to carry your surfboard and gear because parking is usually at a premium, particularly during the summer months. In fact, in some locations you will have to pay to park in either municipal or private lots, while in others there are strictly enforced time limits as to how long your car can be in a particular spot. Jersey Shore law enforcement will strictly follow the law, and they do not look at “surfing” as an excuse for not paying for parking or parking over the time limit. Consider the following breaks, which are listed from north to south.

Experienced surfers will definitely want to check out Manasquan Inlet beach (southern Monmouth County), the site of many surfing contests both in season and off season. One of the best known surfing spots along the East Coast, Manasquan Inlet beach offers breaks from 2 feet to 20 feet as the waves ripples off the jetty to create excellent surfing conditions. Newcomers should beware that this is a spot that can be crowded and rough, but is definitely worth it. The often lengthy rides produced by the jetty, combined with the typical ease of paddling offered by the rip created by the jetty, makes Manasquan Inlet beach a prime surfing location.

Traveling further south into Ocean County, Jenkinson’s (Jenk’s) in Point Pleasant Beach is another location that offers a great break year-round, particularly in bad weather. If a Nor’Easter is hitting, chances are the surfers are out at Jenk’s, riding the wild waves. Beware that the current at Jenk’s can be dangerous, and the waves downright nasty at times, but Jenk’s is a location that the locals tend to flock to once the tourists leave in the fall. Newcomers should also keep in mind that the locals at Jenk’s can be a bit territorial, so it might be advisable to make a few friends here first before paddling out for the first time.

In Bay Head, surfers will want to check out the breaks found at Bridge Avenue, Harris Avenue and Karge Street. Short jetties and sandbars contribute to the Bay Head breaks. Surfers new to the Bay Head area will find the local youth surfers flocking to the breaks, and with parking at a minimum during peak months, they may want to surf here during early morning or late afternoon hours during low to medium tide.

On Ocean Avenue in Ortley Beach (behind the Surf Club), a good wind and the jetties help form a nice break. When the lifeguards get off duty, there are sandbars that, when used wisely, can really help in getting out to big surf. Surfer Dan Claus advises that the crowded beach in the summer and the fishermen in the off-season can make for some problems, but this location definitely is a place to check out. “At Ortley (Ocean Avenue), beware of the jetties because during high tide they are not visible and during a session with strong, long shore currents you can find yourself turning into them, even if you paddled out far away from them,” says Claus.

Two surfing locations to scope out in Seaside Park are the south side of Fun Town Pier and at J Street (particularly in the full summer season), according to surfer Lisa Vecchione. “Because of the pier, you get a nice, small but sweet, swell that could make you feel like your having the time of your life when the wind is just right and the waves are not closing out. In Seaside Park there are also a few well developed sand bars that make for a great low tide break. My favorite time to surf there is at about 4:30 – 5 pm when the beach closes to swimmers and the sun is setting over the bay – beautiful sight to see,” says Vecchione. She advises surfers to be wary during a rough tide because the pier creates a lot of chop and backwash, which can make paddling out quite difficult at times. “Due to the sandbars, many “holes” or “seapusses” are created. This is the space in the water between two sandbars where the water will rush back out to sea. A swimmer can easily get sucked out and have a tough time getting back in, almost like a rip-tide,” said Vecchione.

Surfer Dan McCaffery also recommends J Street in Seaside Park, along with 70th Street in Long Beach Island. “At 70th Street, there is a constant sandbar, creating perfect breaks with a jetty to break current. Limited crowds and a designated surfing beach,” said McCaffery. He expressed that while the surf may be small at times, it is just as much fun. According to McCaffery, more experienced surfers will love surfing around Casino Pier in Seaside Heights, which has near perfect waves but can get crowded on epic days.

While most visitors to the Jersey Shore come during the summer months, surfing is a sport that can be enjoyed all year long. Winter or summer, 30 degrees or 90 degrees, the waves are just waiting to be ridden by surfers of all ages and races, male or female. Even though there may be crowds at the beach, you can find a secluded area to surf, particularly in the early-morning and evening hours and in bad weather.

If you are interested in surfing the Jersey Shore and need to get some gear, the following surf shops were recommended by local surfers: Inlet Outlet in Manasquan (www.inletoutlet.com), Brave New World in Point Pleasant Beach (www.bravesurf.com), Beach House Classic Board Shop in Bay Head (www.beachhouseclassic.com), Ocean Hut Surf Shop in Lavallette (www.oceanhut.com), and Surf Unlimited (www.surfinglbi) and Ron Jon Surf Shop (www.ronjons.com) in Long Beach Island. Also, surf reports and more specific information and advice for each of these Jersey Shore locations can be found at www.surfline.com under East Coast surf reports.

Special thanks to surfers Dan Claus, Lisa Vecchione and Dan McCaffery for their assistance in writing this article.