Story: Pakistan from Street Level

“Why would you want to go there,” was the most common response to my travel plans in Pakistan. It was mysterious to everyone why someone would go into such an apparent hotbed of terrorism voluntarily and unarmed. “Isn’t it too risky?” This audience seemed hesitant to believe my further explanations, politics being complicated enough in the US already and Pakistan so far away. “Keep an eye pealed for Osama out there!” was common advice, as if he would be in line behind me at a corner Starbucks in Islamabad.

The people of Pakistan know their country is feared and misunderstood in the wider world as little more than a training ground for terrorism. They know that radical Islamists have never gotten more than 12% of the vote in any national election. They see foreign aid pouring in from countries only interested in their logistical location and the maintained stability of a nuclear-armed Islamic state. They explained to me their prioritization of family, religion and democracy over all else, almost identically to the way Americans speak of their own country, and the shame felt for violence that does happen within their borders. It only took me a small amount of time in their country to understand why the vast majority of Pakistanis didn’t deserve their dangerous reputation.

Being a foreigner in Pakistan takes a positive mindset adjustment after traveling widely elsewhere. Outgoing individuals on the street immediately assumed to be selling something are only ever interested in constructively discussing politics, the hot weather or maybe the national cricket team’s 1992 World Cup victory. The Qur’an mandates treating guests with hospitality because they are considered an expression of God’s blessing. Foreigners can draw a real crowd with even limited English speakers practicing their common phrases while translating answers for others. “Where are you from,” was always an early question and “America” rarely received the expected dirty look. “America friend,” was frequently mentioned to me, or “good country.” The States have been influential in Pakistan since the time of a Soviet occupied Afghanistan and have financed many beneficial projects. “Americans have big brains; make great things.” Questions also concerned my occupation, marital status and number of children. Most importantly they desired my opinion of Pakistan, obviously proud of their country and then delighted with a foreigner’s positive impression. Greeting and parting always included the shaking of every hand in the group, that punctuation of comradely and comfortable physical contact between men being very important in their culture.

On the street, “guests” are met in the moment as one human being to another. Conversations then often continued somewhere where tea was served, usually consumed black with milk and sugar or green with sugar and occasionally salt in the high country. Drank from little cups, tea makes the perfect excuse to break from the stresses of work or travel for some discussion and relaxation. Because Pakistanis can be very candid, language limitations become the only barriers to direct questions and honest judgments. They consistently and genuinely expressed a belief that the American people aren’t responsible for the military activities in Iraq or Afghanistan inflaming radical Islamists within the tribal regions of their own country. Generations of varying political situations and occasional military rule have taught the Pakistanis to see differences between the actions of a government and the desires of the citizens it’s intended to represent. There was no blame or hostility associated with my nationality, only curiosity, respect and generosity.

On an early morning in Lahore, a man on his motorbike stopped to help my friend and me, who were obviously lost. He was probably on his way to work, maybe the mosque, or going home from the night shift, but there was no real reason for him to halt on that particular corner other than for our presence. Without judgment he asked us, “how can I help you?” His limited understanding of English was enough to provide directions and we thanked him for his help. “You are guest,” he replied with a smile, and motored away.

These were supposed to be terrorists.