Story: My visit to South Bay Los Angeles & Surf City USA

Some of the most beautiful oceanfront in Southern California is 20 miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles and literally at the foot of LAX Airport. Think scenery, attitude, swimming, sailing, beach volleyball, biking or in-line skating. We start with the upscale Manhattan Beach community with its pier (obligatory in every beach town) and aquarium. Next up is the lively Hermosa Beach, its Pier Plaza, a pedestrian promenade and party central. Finally, there is Redondo Beach, the last of the trio of beach towns, yet only 7 miles south of the airport. Early in the last century people came to Redondo Beach for the offshore gambling ships and for the big-band ballrooms. Presently, its most famous landmark is the horseshoe shaped pier with souvenir shops, restaurants, snack bars and fishing areas. North of the pier is the Redondo Beach Marina with boat rentals, harbor cruises, sport fishing and whale watching (late December-March). The nearby King Harbor has 4 marinas. One can bike the 27-mile Strand along the beach or shop in the 6 block Riviera Village, once dubbed the “Hollywood Riviera” where each shop and restaurant is an individual, non-chain operation. Even though Huntington Beach is dubbed “Surf City USA” it was George Freeth who brought surfing to Redondo Beach and the mainland United States from Hawaii in 1907. He also introduced water polo to the west coast.

Where To Stay- The elegant, low-rise Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club is directly on the water. The high-rise Crown Plaza Redondo Beach & Marina Hotel is across the street from the Portofino.

Where To Eat- Baleenlosangeles in the Portofino Hotel has gourmet comfort food with a focus on seafood. Try their hot Japanese Saku Stone Sashimi. Splash Mediterranean Bistro in the Crown Plaza has a great breakfast buffet (they also serve lunch & dinner). Ruby’s is a chain of 1940’s style diners that is a short walk from the Portofino Hotel and is perfect for breakfast or lunch. A local institution is Polly’s on the Pier located on the Sport Fishing Pier and is another breakfast/lunch choice. Yet another luncheon hip spot is H.T. Grill in Riviera Village. Old Tony’s Crows Nest on the Redondo Beach Pier has sweeping views of the pier, harbor and Pacific Ocean. Great for drinks but be careful walking down the long narrow stairs. A dinner choice on the Redondo Beach Pier is Kincaids, followed by a visit to the nearby Harvelle's Jazz Club.

What to Do- The Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center is a 1,450 seat concert hall that is home to the Civic Light Opera, the largest producing musical theatre group in Southern California. The SEA Lab is a hands-on marine science aquarium facility with free admission for kids of all ages. Right around the corner look up at the Whaling Wall, the second largest marine mural in the world created by famed artist Wyland. The Morrell House is a turn-of-the-century Queen Anne cottage. Next door is The Historical Society’s Museum. Check out Demi Moore, Bo Derrick and the Smothers Brothers high school yearbook photos. There are several water options available along the beach including: The Ocean Racer, a high-speed boat ride; Voyager, a serene boat ride that was more my pace and the SSV Looking Glass, a semi-submersible underwater viewing boat.

The second half of my journey took me into Orange County, 35 miles south of Los Angeles and 95 miles north of San Diego. Huntington Beach/Surf City USA (with a population of 200,000) plays host to over 16 million visitors a year. It was originally known as Pacific City and was modeled after Atlantic City. Henry Huntington, owner of Pacific Electric Railroad, was told if he extended his line to Pacific City they would name the city after him-- hence Huntington Beach. The Encyclopedia Britannica promised everyone who bought a one of their sets a free plot of land in Huntington Beach. When oil was discovered in 1920 most of the homeowners became instant millionaires.

Where to Stay- Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa is a sprawling low-rise 517-room hotel with Spanish style architecture. The Hilton Waterfront Beach Resort is a 314-room high-rise next door to the Hyatt and owned by the same company.

Where to Eat- Pete’s Sunset Grille in the Hyatt has surfing and beach memorabilia throughout the restaurant. A great lunch spot. Shades in the Hilton has an excellent wine list. Check to see if the bartender who is an amateur magician is working the night you are there for dinner. He might make your check disappear. Duke’s on the pier pays homage to the surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku and is a hot dinner spot. In the 1920’s Duke visited the pier area to surf and there is a statue honoring him at the foot of Main Street. There is a Ruby’s location here that draws a large lunch crowd. The hot breakfast spot is The Sugar Shack Café on Main Street, opened in 1967. Huntington Beach allows visitors (and natives) to use the 600 free public fire pits along the 8.5 miles of beach, perfect for roasting hot dogs, hamburgers and toasting marshmallows. One night we used the fire pits to make S’mores (a traditional campfire treat consisting of a roasted marshmallow and a slab of chocolate sandwiched between two pieces of graham cracker).

Getting Around & What to See- I rented a beach cruiser (single geared bicycle that you reverse pedal to brake; just like the one I ride in NYC) from Toes on the Nose in the Hyatt for the ¾ mile ride to Main Street, the heart of Huntington Beach with shops, bars and restaurants. It is located directly opposite from The Pier which was rebuilt in 1990 in reinforced steel and concrete. The paved Strand runs the 8.5 mile stretch of the beach. Unlike Redondo Beach’s pier here there are only a few businesses along its straight line direction ending at Ruby’s Diner. Tuesday is Surf City Nights along Main Street from 5-9PM with a farmers market, street performers and sidewalk sales. If you ride a few miles north along the Strand you will come to Dog Beach where dogs can roam free along its ¾ mile length. The city was recognized as one of the world’s pet-friendliest cities. Six miles south and you enter Newport Beach. Our group was lucky to have Chris Epting, author of Huntington Beach California, and Huntington Beach Then & Now serve as our guide for an hour walking tour. We stopped at the International Surfing Museum, a celebration of the surfing culture and history. In 1963 Dean Torrence (of Jan & Dean) and Brian Wilson of the Beach Boys co-wrote Surf City that rose to number one on the hit parade. Dean still lives in town. The Surfer’s Hall of Fame in located on Main Street & Pacific Coast Highway. If riding a beach cruiser is not for you Blue Water Pedicabs is the way to get around. We used them several times. The drivers only work for tips (I think they need to unionize).

Other things to do while in town include: surfing lessons and learning to make sandcastles on the beach (both available through the Hyatt; I was terrible at that sport); kite flying lessons can be had on the pier. I never got over to Central Park with its 354 acres of trees, lawns and lakes but it is also accessible by bike. I also had a massage at the Pacific Waters Spa in the Hyatt. The AVP Pro Beach Vollyball Tour was taking place the weekend I was in town. They built a 3,300 seat stadium right next to the pier and tore it down when the tournament finished. There are 30 public courts along the beach for volleyball games. If you are traveling in your RV there is a parking lot just south of the pier where you can stay for $60 a night October 1st - May 31st that increase in price during the summer months.

Beach Patrol is a half-hour television series airing on truTV (formerly Court TV). The show features lifeguards, Marine Safety Officers and police working together to apprehend criminals and save lives. The first season was filmed in Huntington Beach. There are 24 lifeguard towers along the beach and Lifeguard Tower Zero, located on the pier, was featured on the show. The series will again be shot in Huntington Beach starting this summer.

Have I tempted you to move to Redondo or Huntington beach? Did I mention the 24 hour traffic in the Los Angeles area?

Before You Go-
www.redondochamber.org
www.redondopier.com
www.rivieravillage.org
www.visitredondo.com
www.rbmarina.com
www.hotelportofino.com
www.ichaletsgroup.com
www.kincaids.com
www.harvelles.com
www.surfcityusa.com
www.surfingmuseum.org
www.huntingtonbeach.hyatt.com
www.waterfrontbeachresort.hilton.com
www.dukeshuntington.com
www.chrisepting.com
www.dogbeach.org