Photo Essay: On the cigarette trails of a salaryman

Meet Osaka: She is the lesser known little sister of glamor-monger Tokyo – but she’s got a few tricks of her own hidden up those micro-mini short shorts. Home to 3.5 million people, Osaka is replete with the ubiquitous salaryman, and all the vices that cling to his wafting cigarette smoke trail. Where traditional ikebana has been transformed into cheap tabletop bouquets, and geisha are better known as all night hostesses, Osaka is teeming with sights for the weekend jet setter. It’s not all smoke and grit though. After all, the salaryman has got to entertain the family after his night out with the boys.

Like any city, Osaka is one to be experienced at ground level, walking through the crowded and narrow streets that fill with preened Japanese resident and tourist alike. Begin in Dotoｍburi, a district lined with food stalls、theaters and restaurants. Famous for its street food, Osaka`s narrow passageways are lined with dimly lit food venders hidden in the vapor of their own wares. Venders pour countless molds with tako (octopus) filled batter, spearing the slowly cooking balls into shape with a toothpick. Served in sets of 6 and topped with mayonnaise, these culinary adventures are a must try. True to the unique texture of Japanese food, takoyaki is not for the faint of heart. But as Osaka`s number one street food, and one of Japan`s most famous cuisines, sampling it is a necessity.

From Dotomburi, take an easy subway journey to Shinsaibashi, one of the biggest drinking, shopping and entertainment areas in Osaka. The streets heave with people day and night, shopping in the cramped main arcade. In the tiny streets that line this sardine can of consumerism, snack bars, and hostess clubs abound. The clubs offer everything from vapid conversation by overpriced hostesses, to steamy soap baths administered by giggling ladies. Hostess bars often have no set price, and alcohol is charged at the discretion, or whim of the barkeep. Customers pay for the attention and affection of any number of ladies who are obligated to pour drinks, light cigarettes, and generally fawn over anyone with a wallet. While many are quick to point out that it is not prostitution (ladies are forbidden to engage in anything physical at any time with the customer,) innuendos are thinly veiled, and extra dates are set up for the frequent customer outside of business hours. Although not exactly a hot tourist spot, the bars are an interesting culture unto themselves and are grouped in countless narrow alleys in the most populous nightspots. They are hard to miss and worth at least a few pictures.

Just cross the street from Shinsaibashi to witness more pinafores than you can shake a shepherding stick at. Amerika Murea (or America Village) is the trendy hangout for youngsters evoking a nostalgic America that exists only in acid washed dreams. Bo Peeps and Lolitas walk arm in arm through the crowded shops, stopping for a cigarette in the central and concreted Triangle Park. Outdoor concerts are common during the day. (Stay for the spectacle; tolerate the music.) By night, Amerika Muera is a great deal less crowded and plays host to noisy cars and motorcycles. There are several bars and restaurants, and hipsters still prowl the streets, but most of the action remains in the covered Shinsaibashi.

To escape the writhing crowds, (and perhaps writhing food,) go to the Umeda sky building, a modern twin tower structure that offers stunning views of Osaka by day and night. Ride up the glass elevator and watch as the city shrinks before your very eyes. The top of the building offers a dizzying 360 degree view of the bustling city which stretches to infinity in all directions. There are refreshments available at the top, and underneath the building is Takimi-koji Alley, a maze of old town Japanese style restaurants offering a variety of traditional and semi-western foods.

In a country brimming with aquariums, the Osaka aquarium (Osaka Kaiyukan) is worth a visit. Countless tanks teem with exotic fish. A tunnel offers a unique view of meandering fish, and huge crabs pick over one another in only marginally larger tanks. Osaka also boasts one of the largest tanks in the world, host to two whale sharks -although, if this is indeed a bragging matter remains to be seen. The jellyfish are the grand finale and worth the wait, pulsating through and changing with the lights that illuminate their tanks. Next door to the aquarium is an Imax theatre and the Suntory museum which features a variety of exhibits depending on the time of year. Designed by Ando Tadao, one of Japan`s most famous architects, the building itself is worth a visit. Born in Osaka, several of the architect’s works grace the city. Touring ferry and scenic Ferris-wheel tickets can also be bought at the aquarium, with the port and wheel nearby.

While Osaka is often overlooked in lieu of the bright lights of Tokyo, many people are missing out on the spunk of a lesser priced and equally bedazzling city. For the yen pinching jet setters who wish to cram as much into a weekend as possible, Osaka is the perfect stop. Its bright lights promise to dazzle, and the city is an easy train journey away from the red-sheen of Kyoto’s torii, the pesky deer and mammoth Buddha of Nara, and the towering castle heights of Himeji. One million salarymen cannot be wrong: Osaka is where it’s at.