Story: North To Alaska: The Beauty and the Beast

“Don’t make eye contact!” was the shout heard from my fishing buddy who was quite some distance upstream. An important reminder as I stared at the advancing 10’ brown bear that had floated downstream to just a few feet from the tip of my fly rod. As I quickly shuffled backwards in knee deep water I heard my friend again shout, “And don’t run,” a second tip that we had learned from the park rangers at Katmai National Park. But it was just such close encounters with bears that made the experience in Alaska unforgettable.

If you love the wilderness and nature, think Alaska. Or if you just want to get away from the noisy hustle and bustle of everyday, think Alaska. Of if you’re an avid angler and just want to find some of the best trout and salmon fishing in the world, then think Alaska. I had been thinking Alaska for some time until I and a good fishing buddy recently spent 10 days at Brooks Lodge deeply nestled in the heart of the Katmai National Park.

It was to be a grand adventure, one that incorporated all that could be hoped of a wilderness getaway packed with opportunities for fishing and sightseeing in one of the most splendid of our 50 states. For some, Katmai is a bit remote, something you definitely feel as you head out on your two hour flight from Anchorage to King Salmon and then by float plane to the Kenai Peninsula where our lodge was located.

It seemed we were there in no time and once landed, were quickly whisked away to the lodge where we checked in and then unpacked our gear. As is required of all newcomers, we attended a brief, mandatory orientation on how to deal with the local bears. This actually proved valuable as we had several very close bear encounters over the next week.

As soon as class broke, we were knee deep in waders walking the Brooks River with our first guide. It only took 2 casts of my fly rod before I found myself hooked into what I could tell was a big and not too happy fish, something I was to soon learn was a 5 pound rainbow trout. The fun never stopped and we quickly lost count of the other fish, from beautiful, spotted rainbows to the blood-red colored sockeye salmon that were caught that first afternoon. Yes, we had found an angler’s paradise.

We fished tirelessly every day, pulling in and releasing literally hundreds of sockeye salmon, rainbow trout, and artic char. Conservation is carefully practiced with a fly fishing only policy is allowed on the Brooks River while some spinning tackle can be used on the adjoining Naknek Lake and nearby water. Guides are available for the less experienced angler and fly outs with float planes can be booked for trips to nearby spots, weather permitting.

Lodge guests were of two varieties, the short-termers or overnighters, who flew in for 1 or 2 days primarily for bear watching at Brooks Falls or a little fishing or the longer-term guests that had booked for the longer vacation. Bears were frequently viewed from the three viewing platforms with ample photo opportunities. Given the required distance from the bears, packing a telephoto lens (e.g. 200mm or better) is recommended. A day trip is available to visit the volcanic “Valley of 10,000 Smokes” just a short drive away.

Brooks Lodge offers a family-friendly environment but would be best with families with children over 6 who might better appreciate what the Lodge and area have to offer.
Accommodations were basic and the cabins small yet cozy but not for those looking for luxury or privacy. Dining was communal and buffet-style with the food tasty and filling. A bar was available for the guests who then often gravitated to the large circular stone fireplace often burning in the mess hall.

Great food, breathtaking scenery, long days, limitless fishing opportunities with the option to fly our to nearby lakes and rivers, frequent bear sightings, attentive staff, all make up for a Alaskan adventure that would be perfect for both the hard-core angler, nature lover or travel enthusiast. But I must confess, I’m still thinking Alaska.