Photo Essay: Captivating Québec City

Located high on Cap Diamant and overlooking the Saint Lawrence River, Québec City is a timeless gem; an enchantress that wears each season like a wardrobe, cozy and inviting in the winter, elegant and stately in the summer. There has been much talk about Québec City this year because 2008 marks the 400th anniversary of its founding. The city is celebrating this milestone with a mammoth-sized celebration that will include everyone from Celine Dion to Cirque du Soleil. This anniversary will bring in thousands of people and is sure to be one of the biggest and most anticipated events in Canadian history. Although it's not too late to visit Québec City during this momentous occasion, anytime is a good time to visit Québec City.

Québec City is the only fortified city in North America. This fortification wall divides the city in half and once kept what is now known as Old Québec, or Vieux Québec safely protected from the outside. While most visitors stay primarily inside the wall, the newer part of the city is vibrant, hip and worth further exploration. The wall itself, built of stone with arched underpasses and oxidized copper spires in a magically ghoulish green tone, gives the city a look of intrigue. I savored the experience of walking along the top of the three miles of the wall, admiring the lovely views of the surrounding city, passing by ubiquitous local teenagers hanging out and families picnicking. The wall leads to La Citadelle, the largest military fortification in North America. Home to the Royal 22nd Regiment of the Canadian Army, this site was built by the French in 1750 and construction was continued by the British between 1820 and 1850 to defend the city against a possible invasion from the United States. Visitors can walk partially around La Citadelle on the fortification wall and on a wooden path that balances haphazardly between the buildings and the river for the rest of the way. During the summer months, guests can witness the Changing of the Guards each morning.

Vieux Québec is divided into two sections: Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). Basse-Ville is the section that is located lower on Cap Diamant and is nearer to the river. This is the oldest part of town where Samuel de Champlain discovered Québec in 1608. Place Royal, in the middle of Basse-Ville, was one of the first settlements in town and has always been a cultural gathering place for the Québecois. The buildings here have been restored and now house excellent boutiques and restaurants. Wandering through this area made me feel like I was walking through medieval sections of Europe. The streets are narrow and made of cobblestones, and the architecture looks like it comes straight out of Grimm's fairy tales. Keep your eyes open for the impressive murals that can be found in the area. No trip to Québec City is complete without spending time in Basse-Ville due to its charm and historic importance.

Steep staircases leading to wind-swept river vistas, acres of park lands, magnificent churches, and history around every corner; Haute-Ville Québec has it all. Although the main streets are filled with interesting shops and packed restaurants, it is easy to turn a corner up a quiet, narrow street and find yourself far away from the crowds, in the company of neighborhood cats and chirping birds. Le Château Frontenac, whose bright green roof can be seen from all over Québec City, is the centerpiece of Haute-Ville. Modeled after European châteaux, this is the most photographed hotel in the world. Bewitched by the Château, I too found myself snapping picture after picture of it as if my camera had I mind of its own. Even if a night here is too pricey, you can always make believe with the public tours that are available for a minimal price. There are some incredible museums here and much history to be learned and discovered. However, the best part of visiting Haute-Ville is for the experience itself. Take your time and wander around with an open mind and a full heart and just soak it all in.

To escape from the hub-bub of the city, L'Île d'Orléans is a quick 20 minute drive from Vieux Québec. This highly agricultural jewel in the middle of the St. Lawrence River is brimming with old-world, pastoral charm. Founded in 1535 as one of the oldest European settlements in North America, the island has held on to much of its French culture and heritage and still has inhabitants whose families have lived there for an upwards of seven generations. Upon entering the island, it feels as if time has slowed down to a snail's pace. Plan on spending an entire day here but leave your watch and itinerary in the hotel because you won't need them here. Rent a bike, walk, or drive slowly and truly take time to explore this unique environment. Each of the six villages on this island are distinctive with a stone church as the centerpiece, some of which date back to the 18th century. Stop at some of the dozens of roadside stands and stores selling delectable produce, jams, pies, and maple syrup. Visit one of the many vineyards, galleries, boutiques, and restaurants that glitter the island. Also, be prepared for fortuitous discoveries. While photographing a church, I stumbled across an overgrown, crumbling courtyard linking up to an old path that seemed to jump right out of the pages of a Robert Frost poem. This path led down to a secluded, rocky, shell-filled beach with magnificent views of the river. I would have surely missed out on this treasure if I had been intent on sticking to a schedule. One day on this captivating island, and I guarantee you won't ever want to go back to the hustle of the modern world.

Upon leaving on the bridge from L'Île d'Orléans, you can see on the mainland a picturesque waterfall called Montmorency Falls. A side trip to see this waterfall is well worth the time. Don't be tempted as I was to photograph the falls from the road, the small entrance fee is worth a few hours of exploration and astounding natural beauty. The falls are at the mouth of the Montmorency River where it drops off into the Saint Lawrence River. At 275 feet tall, they are 98 feet taller than Niagara Falls. To get to the top of the waterfall, one can either take the aerial tram or climb the 467 wooden steps (yes, I counted ) that are built right along the edge of the cliff. The climb up the stairs can be quite frightening if you look down, but the climb is well-worth the effort. Once on top of the cliff, there are spectacular views of Québec City, L'Île d'Orléans, and the Saint Lawrence River. There is a bridge that stretches over the waterfall connecting the east and west sections of the park and giving the visitors the opportunity to look down on the falls and the ant-like people walking at the bottom. The park contains lush foliage and rolling greens, just perfect for a picnic.

While this year would be a wonderful time to visit this enchanting city, it may be even better to wait until 2009 when all the anniversary hoopla has subsided and the hoards of tourists have moved on. The city is the most charming when it resembles less of an amusement park and more of the mysterious and romantic city that it is.