I was passing through Papantla's main square when I noticed a familiar-looking blue pole poking up from the yard of the city's main church. Sure enough, returning the next morning there were four men “flying” through the sky, their spin to earth accompanied by the beat of a taut drum and the high whistle of a flute. I had seen the performance once in Mexico City, but it was hardly as striking. Papantla’s pole is nearly twice as tall and sits another story above the level of the city square. In Papantla, the voladores really fly.