Story: Travelers Meet Their Waterloo in Sweden

Travelers Meet Their Waterloo in Sweden
By: Ruth and Rich Carlson
Photos by: Rich Carlson

A new ABBA museum (www.abbamuseum.com) is scheduled to open in Stockholm next year. Visitors will be invited to dance, sing and record songs in multimedia areas. With four levels, the museum features everything about “Sweden’s national band,” as locals refer to ABBA. The glittering (did you really expect another word to describe ABBA?) opening week of the Museum, June 3 – 7, 2009, will feature floating stages on the Harbor.
Don’t wait for the museum’s opening to experience Sweden. Tour the town that invented eco-tourism, dance with the Royal family, and discover subtle Swedish style at hidden boutiques. Program your Ipod and let ABBAs greatest hits be your guide:

“Take a Chance on Me”
Everyone’s written down Paris and London, but Stockholm’s not usually on the top of bucket lists (places you must see before you die). Once you’ve visited though you’ll be back…it’s got style without attitude, attractions without the crowds, and unspoiled natural beauty. Residents speak English, (students must prove their proficiency before graduating from high school),it’s a manageable city, about the same size as San Francisco, and has the highest density of galleries and museums in the world.

For up to date information, visit the official government websites: www.visitsweden.com and www.stockholmtown.com. If you take Scandinavian airlines (www.flysas.com) you can watch old ABBA videos online. SAS was one of the first airlines to introduce Internet access, and the plane’s chef will come by and converse with you regarding your meal preferences! Take that Muppets Swedish chef!

I Have A Dream:
Sweet dreams aren’t guaranteed in Sweden but they’re more likely if you stay at the historic Radisson SAS Strand Hotel overlooking the Harbor, (www.radissonsas.com). Since it’s close to everything, you’re less likely to argue with your traveling partner about directions. Check out the Old Town, the Royal Castle and the food halls of Östermalms Saluhall with reindeer heads adorning the walls; all a 10 minute walk away.

Built for the 1912 Olympics, “…there’s lots of history in these walls,” says Charlotte Blum, General Manager, Radisson Stockholm. For a view of City Hall, where the Nobel Prize ceremony is held, book the penthouse with a private terrace where Madonna stayed and no doubt got inspiration from ABBA memories. At sunset, grab a seat at the sidewalk bar and watch the golden light reflect off the historic architecture opposite the quay as bicyclists whiz past in their suits, ties flying, after a day at work, no doubt saving the planet.

“S.O.S.”
Mother Earth may be in trouble, but it’s not Sweden’s fault. Preserving natural resources is a way of life here. It starts when you get off the plane and catch the Arlanda Express, an electric-powered train; the fastest, and cheapest way to reach Stockholm, the capitol.

Built on 14 islands, the Stockholm water is so clean you can actually swim in the harbor surrounding the City Center. A sleek stone sculpture with an environmental barometer indicates the water quality that day.

Just 45-minutes away, a chain of 24,000 islands is an unspoiled paradise. Although 85% of the archipelago is private property, by Swedish law they’re open to everyone. You’re welcome to hike, bike or camp as long as you clean up after yourself and don’t disturb the residents.

If you’re lucky the locals might offer you some homemade elderberry juice. Lena Eklund is a typical resident. The lone teacher for the only school on Brott Island, she and her husband also operate a kayak rental shop. Inhabited since the Stone Age, Brott has 150 full-time residents and 3,000 visitors each summer.

The unofficial capitol of this archipelago is Vaxholm, the most developed island and the closest to Stockholm. It’s easy to while away an afternoon jumping into the water with friends, exploring the old wooden shops, or dining on herring at an outdoor café overlooking the ancient fortress that once guarded the island and is now a tourist attraction.

Dancing Queen:
Okay the vintage ABBA dance moves may look a little awkward, but they’re easy to recreate at the Café Opera (cafeopera.se). Rumor has it the Swedish Prince hangs out at this dichotomy of a building. Built in the 1800’s, the ceiling is covered with Baroque style floating cherub paintings that watch over modern angels: young model/actresses and socialites dancing the night away dressed in Sweden’s latest fashions. You can’t blame Gen Y for staying out late…in the land of midnight sun, it’s easy to loose track of time. At 3 am, it’s so bright you need your shades to walk home from the clubs.

When I visited, the Miss Stockholm contest was taking place and although my husband Axel quickly volunteered to be a judge he had to settle for taking pictures of the locals, a smorgasbord of beauty.

The Winner Takes It All:
The Nobel Prize honorees are feted at dinners in Stockholm’s City Hall, which was recreated on a Hollywood movie set for the movie, “A Beautiful Mind.” The reception hall is resplendent with gold tile walls depicting Swedish history.

Not everyone has the privilege of being invited to this exclusive banquet but anyone can order the same dinner in the City Hall Cellar, (www.profilrestauranger.se). Under beautiful arched ceilings, which are part of Sweden’s national heritage, you can choose from any of the Nobel Banquet menus served over the years.

Knowing Me, Knowing You:
Boring museum tours are best avoided. Leave it to the Swedes to turn a ship into a museum and the country’s top tourist sightseeing destination. A warship built in 1628, the Vasa was built to show the world how wealthy and powerful Sweden had become. Unfortunately the King’s vanity caused him to load the ship with gold and heavy wooden carved images that made Vasa sink on its maiden voyage. The boat was resurrected from the sea 350 years later and thanks to the area’s cold water it’s beautifully preserved. If you know any sailors, there are lots of useful trinkets in the gift shop such as a floating key chain made of cork Axel grabbed.

Money, Money, Money:
There’s plenty of places to spend your hard earned dollars—-slow down and visit the local spots. (You can find Ikea and H&M at home!). Smart City Shopping (www.smartcityshopping.se) takes you to stores with stories to tell. There’s no pressure to spend, but Lotta Carlsen tempts you at:

Svenskt Tenn, (www.svenskttenn.se), an interior design store that only sells items made in Sweden. It’s also a non-profit foundation that donates funds for gene therapy research, so you can buy beautiful gifts knowing you’re giving to charity at the same time! The store features fabric by Josef Frank, a Jewish artist who created pop art designs while hiding in New York from the Nazis during World War II.

Oscar and Clothide,(www.oscarclothilde.se), a tiny boutique named after an imaginary couple. He’s British, she’s French and they correspond in letters on the stores’ website. The owners are passionate travelers who bring their finds from across the world to this tiny Stockholm store.

Efra Attling, (www.efvaattlingstockholm.com), a jewelry designer Madonna favors where I bought a sterling silver necklace of St. Eric. Check out the champagne glasses with rings inside the stem. If the glass breaks you won’t be sad because you’ll still have jewelry--the perfect gift for klutzes like me.

SVEA, (www.sveasvea.se), named after the original Swedish kingdom, has casual styles, like white pants for yacht parties you know you’ll be invited to next week. Axel thinks he is king of the castle now, wearing a blue sweatshirt embossed with SVEA.

J Lindberg, (www.jlindeberg.se), a popular sports clothing store in Sweden just opening up in America, it’s known for golf attire worn by pro Jasper Parnivick. Axel picked up some yellow pants thinking they would improve his handicap.

Thank you for the Music:
With gas prices, the war and an uncertain economy we can all embrace memories of a simpler time, which must be the key to the popularity of TVs Swingtown, set in 1976. ABBA’s silly tunes put you in the mood to dance so dig through your closet and break out the jumpsuits, hot pants, and wedge boots--oh wait they’re in stores now! As usual, Sweden, the place where it all started, is ahead of the curve. “Just one look and you forget everything,” as they sing in Mama Mia, and “My, My, how can I resist you?” Go back in time and catch up!

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